Munros in the key of George

Oh My Heart, the end of REM

2011-10-28T06:52:00.004+01:00

So the band that made me love music have called it a day. Like everything in their career they did it their way; no fall-outs, no acrimony, no lawyers, just a time to end.

Before I was blown away as a teenager on seeing the video for Losing My Religion, music was around but not in my soul. Like most kids, I would tape the top 40, and wonder who had the top spot, but it was more like an obligation for me resulting from expectation, and the tapes never got any replay. With that song and video, for the very first time I was struck by the notion that popular music could have intelligence, that it could be art. Unlike all the other tunes there seemed to be no marketing force at work, I wasn't being targeted as a demographic, they weren't being moulded into a product. They were doing what they wanted to do and if people liked it, so be it. I could instinctively tell this and it was immediately empowering and liberating. Liking it was a choice by me and not my being subject to an advertising trick as the rest made me feel.

I quickly mined into their back catalogue, starting with Murmur simply because it was a cheap tape in Barnsley's Casa Disco. What on Earth was going on here? What were these tunes? Where did they come from? The quality of the six albums that preceded Out of Time also gave me the everlasting confidence that popularity did not equal quality, indeed as I learnt more about REM and their peers, it was apparent that the most intelligent work was below the radar of popular radio. That not appealing to the common denominator should allow such freedoms seems a given now, but until REM I had no access to the underground. Suddenly the manhole cover was off and my life of trawling the dark corners of music had started. Due to collaborations, support acts and notable musician fans, I quickly expanded into Kristen Hersh and the Throwing Muses, The Breeders, The Pixies, 10,000 Maniacs, Sonic Youth, PJ Harvey and so on. All this before I had even heard of John Peel.

But REM remained the absolute core of my music. Everything I picked up just seemed to be written for me to like. It all just resonated in me. I couldn't believe the consistency of this band. I remember reading later that Fables had been deemed a below par affair, a blip in their IRS years. Well, it was dark and paranoid yes, but while a couple of tunes could have been described as 'just another REM song', below par seemed like an overstatement as they were still great. This was my first taste of a problem for a band that was noted for originality; that producing good songs wasn't good enough, you had to 'remain different'. No pressure then.

Another problem was the popularity. Although through REM I was introduced to the concept that the good stuff was usually hidden away, it was only REM's arrival on the world's stage that introduced the band to my teenage musically-isolated self. However, just attaining this level of popularity meant that for many an inhabitant of the underground scene the band had already 'sold out', somehow become contaminated because the club was no longer exclusive. This to my mind is merely an issue of social context, and in itself has nothing to do with the music, which is actually the only thing that matters, everything else is peripheral, but it is a periphery that can take some cutting through once your head is above the parapet and the merits of your tunes are being debated by Average Joe. I came across an interesting nuance of this mind trap recently in a retrospective article in The Guardian, which associated the rise in fame of the band with Out of Time and Automatic For The People with 'more conventional music' than what had gone before. This is clearly absurd, a perspective fogged by the passage of time. As Stipe himself said, 'If you're a band trying to write a huge cross-over hit, you don't immediately reach for the Mandalin'. I still know people today who have tried but just 'don't get' Out of Time, sometimes there is something in a name. Likewise Automatic while accessible is hardly conventional, a sparse and dark collection of beautiful tunes, prefaced with the foreboding and chorus-lacking Drive. Certainly upon their releases, these albums were not described as convential. It is more testimony to REM that they turned the unconventional into the conventional by skilfully walking a very thin line.

But all of these discussions are curious traits of an artform intricately woven through our media-drenched lives. I have often thought of the relative freedom of jazz and world music artists, and rock and pop artists who remain below the radar, who can happily produce album after album and never be subjected to accusations and being 'past it', selling out, or having 'return to forms'. But for popular rock and pop, ever since the 50's and 60's, we have been sold an image of the vibrancy of youth with a guitar strapped alongside. This coincides with the energy and irreverence if youth, that most bands will soon quit and get 'proper jobs'. This is true for the fans too. From the teens to the end of the Tweens, with a wide social scene, disposable time and income, music becomes a part of the social oil, defining people and linking them together. When personal circumstances become more limiting, or move on from the social collective, to many music becomes a background activity if it remains an activity at all. I know of many who were once keen music followings in their own genres but who have no such passions today. Alongwith new tune lovers arriving every day, this keeps the wheel turning and drives the need for the new.

In this context, where does this leave bands with internal stability and and a knack for a good tune? It becomes, solely for the bands who have pierced the social conscience, almost a special genre (nobody chats about when will Low or The Fall call it a day or 'return to form'). The media and public will watch like a hawk because either way it's a story, it's chat for when a tune passes on the radio. This is a necessary part of the popularity it's true, but forevermore the band is trapped there as lesser sales won't return the freedom, instead it becomes an albatross through which they will be remembered.

But what about the dwindling sales, dwindling quality is the obvious take, but at this level dwindling interest needs a mention. For REM, Out of Time and Automatic were followed by Monster and a world tour that kept them in the news, by the time they were finishing up, New Adventures, a 14 song hour long LP was already in the shops. Now this album has stood the test of time pretty well, although it is overlong and suffers a little from being too like it's predecessor, there is no real quality issue. For me, this is much more about fan and media fatigue and over exposure. At this time I remember the news of another 5-album record deal being greeted with groans by many not welcomed; the Zeigiest had simply moved on. At that level it takes constant marketing to keep the momentum going, with hyperbole often being fuel to the fire. In general terms it simply isn't the case that popular music has the tunes and the underground doesn't, merely that at a certain level bands get a bunch of marketeers behind them whose job it is to push, push, push. However, these people will carry on pushing while they can get away with it, they will still push a polished turd as long as they feel the momentum is there, they have no quality control until the public start pushing back and the product doesn't sell. The problem is that we the public are not totally stupid, and quickly realise how to spot the approaching turd, hence we push back. Beyond that, we're less likely to believe the promises of brilliance, we remember the turd. And even in REM's case there have been some turds...

Yes, don't worry, I'm not going to say that the quality remained as high as before in the final 5 albums, but it is significant that they started from this point of saturation, and it was never in REM's style to try and maintain a U2 patented ubiquity. The final 5 albums while absolutely being justified by quality tunes within them (well for 4 of them anyway...) have been patchy, and for this I solely lay the responsibility at the door of Mr Bill Berry.

Not that I am blaming him for leaving. I am merely acknowledging his influence in the bands temperments. While REM have always had an experimental nature, there has been much written about how it would be that Berry was the one to rein it in, to remind them that they were also making entertainment, and for my money reminding everyone that less is more in terms of album length (OK, he was still there for New Adventures, but maybe by this time his mind was drifting to his tractor too much). Berry was effectively REM's rudder. He was also an essential part of the social glue. Having a work ethic much akin to Buck's, he stabilised Buck's temperament in the studio by also arriving early and getting on with things. This helped prevent the more laid back attitudes of Stipe and Mills from frustrating Buck, something that helped cause an apparent split during the recording of Up, and that kind of thing is never going to help the music. Indeed, part of REM's success has always been their internal democratic credentials. However, once the balance was off, inevitable tensions followed.

But anyway, what of these final 5 albums? Well first along was Up and the brave or stupid opener of Airportman. I actually quite like it, but I somehow doubt Berry would have said, 'yes, let's open with that!'. Up has survived the test of time pretty well, although like it's predecessor it is too long and has some filler which in Up's case are overproduced, slow and just plain dull. Overall filler dilutes the whole effect, which is maddening when it's there on a 14 song LP. Anyway, with Up, we do have Lotus, Hope, At My Most Beautiful, The Apologist, Sad Professor, Walk Unafraid, Daysleeper, Why Not Smile and even Falls to Climb that are all solid works and show that a 10-song effort would have had much more impact (insert your preferred 10th song here).

Reveal is more problematic, the guys wanted to create an album with a constant mood, which they did admirably, but it came across more as a dirge, suffering more severely from the overproduction that began on Up. Still, tunes such as I've Been High, All The Way to Reno, The Chorus and the Ring, Imitation of Life and I'll Take The Rain show that the old magic is there. Unfortunately they are bogged down by abysmal efforts like the supposed anthemic openers The Lifting and She Just Wants To Be which both sound like they died on the mixing desk, neither helped by Stipe's furnishings, further examples of his patchy forays into 'Hey teenager, you'll be fine' subject matter of latter years. This began all the way back with Everybody Hurts, but was to continue awfully with these two on Reveal, better with Imitation of Life, but awful again on Accelerate's Supernatural Superserious (more later).

First we have to deal with the real black sheep of the family, the mutant zombie killing black sheep to be precise, the 'creative' nadir of Around The Sun, if only we could have got NASA to do precisely that. While the lead single of Leaving New York was fine enough, and for me Wanderlust has worth, these are small islands in a bubbling sea of waste, and on other islands these would have been part of the furniture not the main attractions. Around The Sun just feels like it never gets going. There are good ideas present, Electron Blue for example feels like it was going somewhere, but the execution of every single song has problems. It's all too spacey, polished and slow. There is no edge here, no grip and ultimately no interest. Apparently Buck walked out on the album while it was still in the studio. It's little wonder, but Stipe and Mills are not men to be left alone with an unrestricted budget and a reverb button. Buck's puriety was a big factor in REM giving us Monster after the chamber records, but in the 3 piece his frustrations were ultimately despairing rather than creative. This LP shows a band not comfortable in their own skin and it gave a big dent to their confidence and to that of their fans. Urggh, let's move on.

So, Accelerate. Grrr!! Action! Fast! Accelerate!! Argh! It could also be called, Don't Worry It's Not Shit Like The Last One, It Has Some Fast Songs On It! And so it does, with palpable relief on REM's side and ours, it opens with the onslaught of defiant Living Well is the Best Revenge which like a bombing run comes in quick, does its dirty work and exits before you have chance to recover. It is immediately followed by Man Sized Wreath, another superb full throttle guitar fest designed to disarm you and it works fantastically. So far, so great. However, the trio of fast-openers is completed by another teenager-reassurance effort from Stipe, the cringe-inducing Supernatural Superserious. Apparently it's a sequel to The Lifting from Reveal, if ever a song didn't need a sequel. Guess what teenager, you'll be fine! Yes Michael, as long as they can press skip. Still, it isn't all that bad, but Hollow Song, sorry, Hollow Man, up next, is. This one would fit perfectly on Around The Sun and that is a bad thing. It has a slow-fast structure and some Stipe 101 lyrics on what will happen if you're too passive (God, you'll end up being a Hollow Man!). It's everything that can be irritating by REM without the magic that coverts it to something special, and yet again a terrible single choice by the lads, let's move on. Wow, Houston. The 5th song on Accelerate is a fine and rich example of the dark brooding REM can do so well and is reminiscent of Country Feedback. Houston is a simpler song and as such it is wisely kept short, but along with the openers, it entirely justifies the rest of the LP, which is good because it kind of needs it. The rest isn't bad, and it's certainly no Around The Sun, it just isn't very inspiring. Until the Day Is Done and Sing For The Submarine are interesting, but their full potential isn't reached. Mr Richards overstays its welcome as it never develops from its opening structure, and the 'fast' closers of Horse To Water and I'm Gonna DJ are ramshackle drunk party songs that sound like live tracks circa 1983, and just don't feel like they have the gravitas for LP tracks. Overall then, Accelerate was a much needed life-saving transfusion as REM lay prostrate on the operating table, but it would take a little time and luck in recovery before they would be up to their old tricks.

And then along came Collapse Into Now, aaahhhhh. Who knew? Who knew they had one of these in them still? No excuses, no apologetic analysis, this is simply put a good album. The whole thing just sounds as if they were confident and free in its making. No pressure, no baggage, just let's get together and make some good music. I do wonder if they'd already decided this would be their last studio work and that'd given them a sense if liberation. Whatever the reason, it works. The opener of Discoverer is an addictive layered guitar riff overlaid with some quirky Stipe lyrics and delivery. OK, there are some moments of Stipe 'feeling calm', but my hat off for 'with a little bit more finesse, I'd have made a little less mess, but it was what it was, let's all get on with it, nowwww!'. This is surpassed however in the worthy follower All The Best, a solid, rousing, storm of a song with the surely autobiographical tour de force directness of 'I hold the mirror up, you tell me what is what, you tell me which part of my story baby is stuck, stuck, stuck, I'm in a part of your dreams that you don't even understand, it's just like me to overstay my welcome, bless, let's sing in a rhyme, let's give it one more time, let's show the kids how to do it, fine, fine, fine, I just had to get that off my chest, now it's time to get on with the best, all the best, all the best, all the best, best, best, best, it's just like me to overstay my welcome, bless'. Wow, bullseye Stipe, bullseye. Already with a big smile on your face, this falls beautifully into Uberlin with its wonderful clean country guitar from Buck and fragile but engaging collective lyrics from the Stipe. Add to that the Berlin context and the improvised Aarin Johnson featuring London video and the song is lifted to being a modern classic, good lads. There then follows a 4th blinder with Oh My Heart, and you start to think the patchy years were your imagination. Oh My Heart is a grand fairly slow number seemingly about belonging to a geographical place with all that it brings and the song features the best harmonies from REM since Out of Time. Wow. OK, so there is a little dip after this amazing opening, with It Happened Today and Everyday Is Yours To Win (I'm guessing Mills, anyone?), but they're worthy of a place. These are followed by the fun of hopefully metaphorical Mine Smell Like Honey with its swirling guitar and vocals which would have been a blast live. Walk it Back, a slow and simple piano piece I initially didn't like but it has grown on me especially after seeing the rather odd video! Next up, Alligator_Aviator_Autopilot_Antimatter is tremendous. It's a stomping guitar party reminiscent of the gang ramshackle of Horse to Water and I'm Gonna DJ but here it's really well executed and is one of the album highlights, 'I feel like a contradiction, i'm a walking science fiction' sings guest vocalist Peaches, yes! From there we have a dip with the fast but shallow That Someone Is You and the pedestrian Me Marlin Brando, Marlin Brando and I, but it's not long before Blue comes along to smack us in the face. Blue is a dark fuzz of noise in the vein of country Feedback and Houston, but here Stipe's accompaniment is a spoken word stream of consciousness that includes the album's namesake and is joined by none other than Patti Smith as she adds the only actual singing on the track. It is a fine thing to behold and it is a fitting end to the album (unless you count the curious reprise of Discoverer which works too). All in all this is an album that I find myself returning to time and time again, which is exactly how it should be. Once again, it is a latter day REM album which would benefit from being a 10 song album, for my money dumping That Someone Is You and Me Marlin Brando Marlin Brando and I, but altogether it stands up very well.

And so there you have it. That Ladies and Gentlemen, was REM. To paraphrase Burt Bacharach, the art of attending a party is knowing when to leave. Maybe the lads hung around a little too long for some of the guests, but it was a great party and they still had a good circle of people around them laughing along even if the odd punch line missed. Just like with Stipe's hero, Andy K, maybe they were never there, but in trying you have the possibility of attaining a special place. It's worth a shot.

Why not smile?

Assynt and the Far North: Ben Klibreck (Meall nan Con) (194)

2011-07-18T21:33:00.012+01:00

Walk date: 30/06/11
My Munro #'s: 217

Pronunciations - translations - heights:

Byn kleebreck - hill of the speckled cliff - 962m

Statistics:

Duration - 14:30 - 18:00
Distance - km
Total ascent - m
Weather - dry but windy on top

Team - with Paul P

Other hikers: 5 others

Paul P and George 'Daddy Team' Hiking Trip 2011

Day 6 - Thursday

Now, you'll note that this hill was started rather late in the day. It just so happens that as we were leaving the hostel in the morning, we couldn't find my rather expensive Canon 40D DSLR camera and the more expensive wide angled lens that was attached to it. The last time we had seen it was on Ben Hope, when I had put it down on some rocks while we had our rest. Upon setting off down, I'd asked Paul to check if I'd put it back in my bag, he had felt in my rucksack and said yes. However, it slowly dawned on us on this morning that he must have felt my lunch box (so to speak) and that the camera must have spent a night up on the hill, where it had been constantly raining of course!

Hence today actually started off with a second climb of Ben Hope, where we did indeed discover my camera still on the summit! Phew! What's more amazing is that once I'd given it a week to dry out, it still worked perfectly. Canon, hats off to your construction methods!

So finally, after this 'bonus' hill, a fair bit more driving on 'interesting' roads, and lunch, we actually set out for a new hill. Without a good place to stop at the plotted start point, we carried on a little and found what was technically a car park but actually more like a large passing place on the A836.

The way from this spot started with a small river crossing, which was ok as we found some rocks, but most of the river was bare and it would have been tricky without them. After that reaching the hill itself was a feat in itself, as a large expanse of grass and bog has to be crossed. Thin trails through the grass showed that some other souls had been this way. We did consider heading north to our plotted route, but nothing could be seen that way, and the point at which it hit Klibreck looked like a sheer wall from where we were.

We had resigned ourselves to heading south east for the lowest end of the south ridge (a point off the map), but the thin trails we were on ended up becoming a thin path up onto the back of Klibreck. The going was extremely steep with short bursts of energy being the preferred option, but the height was gained impressively quickly and we found ourselves being a spectacle for other hikers higher up. It turned out these other hikers had been on the main path, which indeed ran the length of the ridge along the western facing side. Our adventurous trail hit it below Creag an Lochain and after that the going was very smooth.

The next real climbing was for the summit itself and on a fast path so we didn't mind so much. Before long we were sat amongst the summit rocks taking in another spectacular Far North view. The route down was unsurprisingly much faster which meant we were in good time for a special dinner.

As is my way when going to a new hiking area, one of the first things I study after the hills is the local real ale action and this was no different. The Crask Inn turned up very quickly in my research and with its reputation for food it had to be visited, and when better at the end of a week's hiking? It did not disappoint. The bar was rustic and comfortable, the service excellent and friendly, the ales (mostly in bottles) were very interesting, the food delicious and the coffee of nuclear strength. A superb end to a superb week. Recommended!

Oh Klibreck, why so far?

The 'main' path, now that's steep!

Big skies:

A deserved break:

Southeast from the summit:

Loch Naver and the Far North:

Looking back to the 'car park':

The lonely Crask Inn:

I'm easily pleased!

Give me this bar and a snow storm any day!

Just chillin' in the Crask:

Sunset from Tongue as we walked to the pub once back:

North from the Tongue causeway on the morning we left:

And south, the whole of the UK this way:

Assynt and the Far North: Cape Wrath and Ben Hope (256)

2011-07-18T21:32:00.010+01:00

Walk date: 29/06/11
My Munro #'s: 216

Before we get to the munro, we didn't feel we could be in this area and not take in the lonely north-weatern edge of Scotland. I say lonely because although a population did live there one, the penisula has long been abandoned, and indeed part of it now forms a RAF bombing range, perhaps there's a connection there? To visit, you have to get a trip in a tiny boat and then a bumpy 11 mile ride in a battered minibus. It's not everyone's cup of tea, but the boat and bus were full on our day!

Cape Wrath trip first:

Phew, no bombs today!

The boat!

The guy at the back is the skipper, he fishes while ferrying too!

All aboard the luxury bus!

The lighthouse is the only reason a road was built!

Now that's a fog-horn!

Big cliffs and rocks, hence a light-house!

Thataway are the UK's highest mainland cliffs!

See...

Spot the nutter getting a closer look:

Nice arch:

We were there!

Pronunciations - translations - heights:

Byn hope - hill of the bay - 927m

Statistics:

Duration - 16:30 - 18:30
Distance - 11 km
Total ascent - 910m
Weather - mixed, mainly good but windy

Team - with Paul P

Other hikers: 3

Paul P and George 'Daddy Team' Hiking Trip 2011

Day 5 - Wednesday

Although it was late in the day after Cape Wrath, Ben Hope is a 2-hour outing and we were feeling lazy without a munro under our belts. We set off at a grand pace from a signposted car park with a clear path. This wasn't the start my book suggested, but it seemed to make sense to us, and besides we welcomed the break from driving on the tiny track we were on.

A quick burst of ascent gets you onto the back of Ben Hope and from there the pace is momentarily more chilled before getting back to business. Although the route is relatively steep it was just right with a bit of determination to keep it going all the way to the top. The path is clear and fast, with some rocks but nothing loose enough to give you issues. In just over an hour we were at the summit exhilarated and rewarded with some fine views over the north coast of Scotland including our overnight spot at Tongue and on to Orkney. Having taken in the views, and with such a good pace we couldn't help it but quickly turn it around and stomp on down, arriving at the car exactly 2 hours after setting out. Grand!

Up the back of Ben Hope:

Getting there:

Hurrah!

Now that's a view!

A man and his trig point!

Assynt and the Far North: Conival (158) and Ben More Assynt (141)

2011-07-18T21:31:00.010+01:00

Walk date: 28/06/11
My Munro #'s: 214 and 215

Pronunciations - translations - heights:

Konivaal - hill of joining - 987m
Byn moar assint - big hill of Assynt - 998m

Statistics:

Duration - 10:50 - 17:30
Distance - 17.4 km
Total ascent - 1040m
Weather - grey, wind, spots of rain and sun!

Team - with Paul P

Other hikers: lots, a busy day

Paul P and George 'Daddy Team' Hiking Trip 2011

Day 4 - Tuesday

This day marked our journeying on to the true far north of Scotland, a wild land less jagged and high than the heart of the Highlands, but with a remote air that can't be challenged, not to mention the so-called A-roads1!

From the four munros in this district, Conival and Ben More Assynt are the only ones that can be linked together. The route is straightforward from the Inchnadamph car park , as it rises gradually up the long Glean Dubh with Conival evident before you. A diversion is possible from the ascent to visit the Tralligill Caves, but with a fair bit of travelling before and after our hike we keep our gaze on Conival.

Toward the top of the glen, the path bends north east to reach the col between Conival and Beinn an Fhurain, after that the pace of ascent continues up the rocky northern ridge of Conival which flattens on top with the summit being along at the join to the Ben More Assynt ridge. A spot of a rest here to soak in the simply massive vistas on offer.

The summit of Ben More Assynt is less than 2km away, and the route on is simple enough navigation, however the ridge between the two peaks is awash with loose stones and the going is slow and tiring; a rare route where some snow would actually help! Having made it to the summit, we took in a deserved rest while enjoying huge views over Loch Shin and low hills for miles around.

A fine day out, with a great stop in the recommended Achininver Youth Hostel overnight, enjoying real sun with some fine real ale!

A great looking hostel at the base of the path:

Conival makes an appearance:

On the rise up Conival:

Huge views from Conival's summit:

That rocky ridge to Ben More Assynt:

A nice spot for lunch on Ben More Assynt:

Enjoying the descent through Glean Dubh:

The Achnashellach and Torridon Hills: Sgorr Ruadh (195)

2011-07-18T21:29:00.008+01:00

Walk date: 27/06/11
My Munro #'s: 213

Pronunciations - translations - heights:

Skoor rooa - red peak - 962m

Statistics:

Duration - 12:00 - 17:00
Distance - 16.2 km
Total ascent - 948m
Weather - 'bright grey'

Team - with Paul P

Other hikers: 2

Paul P and George 'Daddy Team' Hiking Trip 2011

Day 3 - Monday

Having done 'Superbig', this freed up a day in our week allowing us to head back to the Achnashellach arena and have a second go at Sgorr Ruadh, having been defeated on a previous excursion due to horrendous weather, see here.

Well the weather on this day was certainly better. As Paul put it, it was pleasantly 'bright grey'. We set off quite late in the day, due to a deserved lie-in, but then also a motor bike crash just down from the bunkhouse, which necessitated an air ambulance landing on the road just outside!

The route up past the train station, into the forest and out is straightforward enough, and then the good path leads you climbing up alongside the River Lair. After a while the path flattens out as you enter the upper glen, with gentler slopes taking you up to the bealach between the munros with its excellent views over to Liathach in Torridon proper.

The climb of Sgorr Ruadh then starts in earnest and is unsurprising to start with, before rock outcrops are met and some minor scrambling is required, something that wouldn't have been good if we'd have pushed on with the last attempt!!

Nonetheless, the summit is soon reached with the good path providing amazing panoramic views over nearby hills and the western coast. Our route on was to head for Fuar Tholl but then to descend before it. This worked out well but for a fair while was pathless and a little hard work around Loch a' Bhealaich Mhoir with many ups and downs and outcrops to walk around. Anyway, soon enough a good path is met which links with the ascent route. A fine day out with kind weather such as this!

Fuar Tholl looking good:

Not tired from yesterday, not us!

Looking back down the glen:

Liathach spotted from the col!

Sgurr Ruadh summit this way!

Looking over to Loch Torridon:

With me!

Loch a' Bhealaich Mhor and Fuar Tholl beyond:

The crags of Fuar Tholl:

Fannaichs and Ullapool Hills: Seanna Bhraigh (262), Eididh nan Clach Geala (257), Meall nan Ceapraichean (177), Cona' Mheall (176)and Beinn Dearg (57)

2011-07-18T21:28:00.013+01:00

Walk date: 26/06/11
My Munro #'s: 208, 209, 210, 211 and 212

Pronunciations - translations - heights:

Shena vry - old upper part - 927m
Aydyee nan klach gyala - web of the white stones - 927m
Myowl nan kyapreechan - a rounded hilltop - 977m
Konival - hill of the joining - 978m
Beinn Dearg - red hill - 1084m

Statistics:

Duration - 09:05 - 20:45
Distance - 39.2km
Total ascent - 2500m
Weather - wet from the very start with low cloud, a break on Seanna Bhraigh

Team - with Paul P

Other hikers: a plucky 2

Paul P and George 'Daddy Team' Hiking Trip 2011

Day 2 - Sunday a.k.a. 'Superbig'

Now I've always had a penchant for looking at adjacent walks in books and thinking, 'Hmm, those could go together', but sometimes this enthusiasm can go too far. As I sat plotting a route linking the two walks that could produce this 5-munro almost 40km day I thought to myself that this one was definitely too ambitious but that it would be OK because Paul would make me see sense.

Paul didn't.

Paul was in fact as enthusiastic as me, or at least, we agreed to set off and see how we got on, which is always our speak for 'We're going to do it aren't we?'. This was no exception.

While still at the car park the rain came on; I actually prefer this as it means I put on the wet gear from the start and don't have to stop later. Well, I certainly didn't have to stop to take it off at any point!!

The route sets off very gentle, meandering through a forest plantation before rising sharply on a good path as the forest peters out. The path takes you onto the vast plateau of Inverlael Forest where the good path continues across this exposed land before finally turning a corner and climbing just south of Meall Glac an Ruighe toward Meall Choire Ghlais.

When the ground flattens the route becomes ambiguous and there are many options of how to make your way across the scarred land to Gate of Ca'-derg and its majestic views. The going is a lot slower than you might think due to having to walk round many a sudden drop.

From the gate the route on to Seanna Bhraigh is simple and the deep corrie is a just reward. Although this was our only view of the day, it did make the whole thing worthwhile. When we were leaving the summit we met our only other 2 hikers of the day, one looking much more enthusiastic than the other. The enthusiastic one informed us that they were doing the same loop but descending a different and quicker way, so we could meet them at their car later if we wanted. Hmm, they seemed nice guys but I don't want to have my down route dictated by someone who might or might not be there at the end of a full day's hiking. We said that we would see about it, but then we never saw them again, so caution seemed to have been the best course of action!

Anyway, to move on the only option is to slowly retrace your steps to Meall Choire Ghlais and then make your best line up the rocky slopes of Eididh nan Clach Geala. The link to this hill is by no means obvious, but is written into many books.

After that, steep grass and rocks take you over Meall nan Ceapraichean to Bealach an Lochain Uaine which was tough going for supposedly flat ground, and not just a little confusing in the thick mist.

We ascended first up Cona Mheall which was decent enough before returning and taking on the huge bulk of Beinn Dearg. At this point we were both fairly done in, and I was certainly slipping all over the path just because of not lifting my legs enough with each step. Eventually though, the path crosses the boundary wall and the incline lessens, becoming a rocky crest with a large summit cairn. Here we rewarded ourselves with a second lunch (it was 5ish) and a sit down!

Fortunately, the descent proved very swift. We were soon off Dearg and on a fantastic path along Coire Mathair Lathall which we pounded along back down to the forest plantation, arriving just under 12 hours after starting out. Time for a proper meal and a beer or two!

Crossing rivers on the Inverlael Forest plateau:

The view from Seanna Bhraigh:

And another:

Gate of Ca'-derg:

Taking a stroll:

T'was wet and miserable for some long stretches!
This was approaching Meall nan Ceapraichean:

The Fannaichs and Ullapool Hills: Am Faochagach (210)

2011-07-18T21:26:00.005+01:00

Walk date: 25/06/11
My Munro #'s: 207

Pronunciations - translations - heights:

Am foechakack - place of the shells - 954m

Statistics:

Duration - 13:15 - 17:45
Distance - 15.8km
Total ascent - 1005m
Weather - some light rain once at height and very windy on the top, but generally fine and ended in warm sun.

Team - with Paul P

Other hikers: a couple

No cause for concern once the river's crossed!

Paul P and George 'Daddy Team' Hiking Trip 2011

Day 1 - Saturday

Yes, despite both being Dads now, Paul and I still somehow managed to make it away hiking this year, although clearly time for the write-ups has since been lacking!

This year we opted to go to the very far north, stopping in locations as remote as Aultguise bunkhouse, Achininver and Tongue, and taking in Munros whose names conjure a certain mystique such as Seanna Bhraigh, Ben More Assynt and Ben Hope.

First up was Am Faochagach which is an isolated peak famed for it's often impossible river crossing. Fortunately Abhainn a' Gharbhrain was managable on a dry day such as this, but it was still tricky. It is a broad river, which many small slippery rocks that are just a little too far away for comfort, most of them would soon submerge with a good rain. Just to get to it means covering a wide bog land which was tough enough when it was relatively dry and our first work of the week, this is surely one to avoid if even damp out.

After the river the climbing starts at a pretty even rate over decent ground. The walking speeds up once on the long crest and it generally gives little concern while rewarding with superb views west over to Beinn Dearg and it's pals.

The only problem we had is to be overconfident leaving the summit, a little bit of cloud was all it took us to set off for a short spell down the wrong way. Ahem, compass bearings anyone?

A pint of An Teallach ale down at the Aultguise was still deserved of course...

Crossing the bog at the head of Loch Glascarnoch:

That river crossing!

Sun on the descent:

The pint!

The Cairnwell Hills: Glas Tulaichean (79), Carn an Righ (102), Beinn lutharn Mhor (88) and An Socach (227)

2011-05-02T14:12:00.015+01:00

Walk date: 01/05/11
My Munro #'s: 203, 204, 205 and 206

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Glas tooleechan - green hills - 1051m

Kaarn an ree - hill of the king - 1029m

Byn yooarn vore - big hill of the edge - 1045m

An sochkach - the projecting place - 944m

Statistics:

Duration - 09:15 - 17:35
Distance - 37.5km
Total ascent - 1800m
Weather - sunny all day long, fairly strong and cold wind on summits, but generally ideal, hot once back in the glens

Team - solo

Other hikers: several

A little variation can be a good thing!

For some reason, the height profile here is in reverse!

The start of the hike is the right hand side:

With two consecutive long weekends this Spring, events had come together nicely to allow me into the hills one time before this year's full week away in the Summer. With opportunities few and far between, I wanted this one to count, so a bit of map-studying brought about a plan to link up my four remaining summits of The Cairnwell Hills into one fair beast of a day. Strangely, given this plan, possible companions for this day quickly found other things to do...

With Xavier waking at 5am, it was an early start before I even got to packing the bag, nevermind starting the 2 hour drive, but I still managed to set off from the car park at Spittal of Glenshee at 09:15. Speaking of parking, a sign at the start of the Dalmunzie Hotel road said that hikers could only park there with permission. Having not requested any, I stopped at the sign, meaning an extra 2km (of dull road walking) each way was immediately added to the day!

The good signs continued once I made it to the hotel, letting you know the way past the complex to the hill routes, and then which glen you want for what hills. No doubt they have learnt from experience!

The Glen Lochsie path was from the start a solid Landrover track meaning that the going was fast which was a relief given the distance to come. Even when the incline stepped up at the sorry-looking Glenlochsie Lodge, the track twisted along satisfactorily and height came quick. Without incident, with great views over to nearby Beinn a' Ghlo, and in fine but breezy weather, the summit of Glas Tulaichean was reached, with a departure from the track only necessary at the very end.

From Glas Tulaichean I had plotted a rather direct route over to Carn an Righ but in reality the loss in height looked substantial and steep. However, it turned out that it was a mis-judgement of scale given the few reference points around. In the end it was a mere drop to 700m and the slopes, once on them, were fine.

Upon reaching the col between Mam nan Carn and Carn an Righ the going was quick again up the rocky side of Carn an Righ. A short moment to appreciate the view and take some photos and I was off down again, mindful of the job still to do. It was here that I met my first fellow hiker of the day; in our little chat I was quickly told my way up Glas Tulaichean was horrible because of the Landrover track, and that he'd created a much better 'wild' route via Gleann Taitneach, although he'd had to deal with a lot of peat hags! Now, I can see his point, but wanting to do four hills I wasn't going to sweat taking a quicker route. In any case, 'wild' is relative; I was quick happy being on a wide track but taking in magnificent views while deep into the Scottish hills. When hearing I was up for An Socach in the same day, he then started criticising a book he didn't like assuming that I'd got the route from it. I assured him I'd just made the route up but he then moved on to criticise the majority's route up the next hill, Beinn lutharn Mhor, saying that lots of people took a path up the side of Mam nan Carn to avoid a boulder field on its main face, well, ok... I assumed he had a low opinion of these people. Anyway, I bid a good day to this chilled out man, and promptly took said path.

Beinn lutharn Mhor, like the two before it, came relatively quickly, and was a very similar hill in its rounded substantial mass to the two before it. The rest of the day was a different affair as I dropped down alongside Loch nan Eun and hit low level heathered terrain, with uneven ground, knotted roots and the odd peat hag for fun. An Socach was a significant distance away, and despite it being the shortest hill of the day, when I got to it I could immediately see it was also the steepest. Being quite tired now, the short loose final stages were a challenge on the old thighs but the flat summit was soon underfoot marking a glorious end to the day's round.

The return took me down to Feith Sile but only after disturbing a herd of a good 100 deer, who then seemed to run off in the same direction I was going for quite a few km! This river bed ended up being quite tiring as the river kept sweeping from side to side meaning a few crossings were necessary; easy in terms of width but even a small jump was unwelcomed at that stage in the day. Finally, the sides of the glen became so steep that I had to traverse up a slope, but that swung me out onto a mound looking down onto Gleann Taitneach and the return of solid paths.

After that the going was fast again although tough in the beating sun. The buzz on reaching the car was well worth everything of course!

Passing the swanky Dalmunzie Hotel at the start:

Good sign-posting keeps you right at the start:

Glenlochsie Lodge has seen better days:

Looking back down Glen Lochsie:

The landrover track provides fast walking up Glas Tulaichean:

Glas Tulaichean with the Cairngorms behind to the north:

Beinn a' Ghlo looking good to the south west:

Next up, Carn an Righ with a drop to 700m inbetween:

Cairn action on Carn an Righ:

Looking across to Beinn lutharn Mhor:

Nice quick walking on Beinn lutharn Mhor:

Beinn lutharn Mhor summit with the Cairngorms behind:

Coming up onto Loch nan Eun:

4th hill of the day An Socach is the far one in the middle:

And it's steep!

4/4, time to stomp on down to the car:

The Tarf and Tilt Hills: Carn an Fhidhleir (Carn Ealar) (148) and An Sgarsoch (126)

2010-08-29T12:20:00.009+01:00

Walk date: 28/08/10
My Munro #'s: 201 and 202

Pronunciations - translations - heights:

Kaarn an yeelar - hill of the fiddler - 994m

An skaarsoch - the place of the sharp rocks - 1006m

Statistics:
Duration - 10:15 - 18:00
Distance - 44.9km
Total ascent - 1050m
Weather - spots of rain at start of bike ride, descending into heavy rain for a good while, before clearing up for most of the rest of the day
Team - solo
Other hikers: a couple of dozen!

Now that's a long way!

Close-up of the hills themselves:

This was a hike that I had been wanting to for a good while, but its sheer length was always a constraint in the planning stage, not to mention the mental-preparation stage! However, with fewer opportunities to hike now given family life, I had to take advantage of currently being home alone and set out on this monster trek.

The familiar drive along Deeside got me to Linn of Dee, with an essential stop in Braemar to get some boot laces, having realised Friday night that I'd never replaced them since they tore on Paul and mine's Knoydart trip back in May!

The distance of this hike is actually made much easier by the good tracks in towards this hills from Linn of Dee. Even with my exceptionally slow cycling, it was a distinct advantage to be on two wheels. Although height is gained along the track, for most of the way it's barely noticeable, and I only realised it for the most part on the return route, when progress was clearly faster. The exception is after the west turn 2km after White Bridge, where, besides an abandoned bothy, the track does start to twist its way upwards slightly, although never so much that I got off the bike.

The going was still tiring as it was much windier than and I anticipated. It was also at this point that the deluge came on, getting my legs soaked as I wasn't quick enough making my decision to get the waterproof trousers on. Starting to get cold then, I walked across a deep ford with the bike (slimy rocks!), and then dumped my bike before the Geldie Burn, for another stride across, this time through a shallow but fast flow. Some hikers here on the other side tried to encourage me to cycle across, as they said it was fine as long as I kept my balance. True enough, but the water was so dark, you couldn't see any obstructions through it, and if I went in so did my SLR camera and a few other gadgets. The main thing that put me off their advice though is that they were sat on the far bank changing their socks as they said this! Hmm.

At Geldie Lodge I had some snacks and discovered my platypus had leaked despite my thorough checking of it in the morning, probably it was as a result of over-filling and then being squashed in the bag. There was still half in there, but it was annoying, especially as I usually took spare water but hadn't today to save on weight. I still had my flask of hot drink so there wasn't too much of an issue, but unlike with other rivers, the colour of Geldie Burn made me guess it wasn't going to be a good back up plan!

Finally hiking instead of biking, a good path meanders on from Geldie Lodge toward the actual hills, not that I could see them with the low cloud that had accompanied the rain. After a fair while, the glen of Allt a' Chaorainn is entered, but cruelly here the path heads downstream, away from the targets, and it is left for you either to cross peak hags onward to the slopes of Carn an Fhidhleir or go a similarly random route up the glen. I chose the former, which was much better than I thought it would be, especially as the sun chose this moment to come out again, and the cloud moved on from both hills.

The climb up was surprisingly quick and the crest of Carn an Fhidhleir gave good, albeit windy, walking, with grand views over the cairngorm plateau and to Beinn a' Ghlo and Glen Tilt to the south.

After that a good although thin path continues forward up the glen, but then dissipates in the final stages down to the boggy col before An Sgarsoch. Here, thin trails lead anywhere as long as it's up, and the summit of An Sgarsoch is quickly reached. At this point for me, the weather turned wet again, and I quickly moved on, down the NNW ridge over tiring heather and bog until finally the Geldie path was met again, where I rewarded myself with some snacks.

Back at the ruin of Geldie Lodge, I made use of the convenient shed structure attached to one side for some more nutrition and a re-ordering of my pack ready for the cycling stage. Accepting getting wet with the rising Burn, I just strode through it, and enjoyed a rapid cycle back to the car, finishing in clear weather, making the whole experience end on a fantastic high.

From Geldie Lodge, the long route back:

Same place, looking onward:

The slopes of Carn an Fhidhleir have no clear access point:

Fine views to the cairngorms:

The summit of Carn an Fhidhleir comes into view:

The route home from some height:

An Sgarsoch from the climb up 'Fhidhleir:

Getting closer:

Beinn a' Ghlo to the south:

On that crest finally!

Cairn action:

Next, An Sgarsoch!

Other hikers!

And take 2, pretty sweet:

Beinn a' Ghlo in some weather:

Knoydart and Loch Quoich: Sgurr nan Coireachan (213), Garbh Chioch Mhor (116) and Sgurr na Ciche (92)

2010-07-08T21:21:00.008+01:00

Walk date: 29/5/10 (Saturday)
My Munro #'s: 198, 199 and 200

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor nan korachan - peak of the corries - 953m

Garav kee-ach voar - big rough place of the breast - 1013m

Skoor na keesh - peak of the breast - 1040m

Statistics:
Duration - 10:00? - 20:00
Distance - 28.4km
Total ascent - not recorded
Weather - poor from first hill, constant rain, wind and low cloud until back in glen
Team - Paul P
Other hikers: 5

Paul P and George 'Knoydart and around' hiking 2010

This turned out to be the last hiking day of this trip, and what an epic to finish on! This was always going to be a big day, but add in fatigue, poor weather, a wrong turn and an end-of-day race for food, and this is a day we won't forget in a while!

This hike had the same route in as the day before, with the endless drive along Loch Arkaig giving us plenty of time to contemplate that task ahead. This time we stayed in Glen Dessarry past the lodge until the road ran out and became a good, if wet, path deep into the hills. After a river crossing, a small cairn marked the point of climbing, and a descent path took us up toward first target Sgurr nan Coireachan.

As we hit the broad summit here, the cloud and rain hit us, and basically stayed all day. With a combination of a miscommunication between us and a couple of hikers we met, the flat summit, the low visibility and unbelievably not taking a bearing, it turned out we set off from this hill the wrong way, heading over toward yesterday's Sgurr Mor rather than Garbh Chioch Mhor, and we got all the way until An Eag before realising over mistake, once we met some more hikers who set us right (the irony being we had thought about doing all 4 hills in one, but reckoned it would have been too much!).

Given that the day was big and tight for time anyway, such an event was not welcomed, but we decided the objective was still possible, and set into a 'repair situation' pace, stomping back up Coireachan despite burning thighs. Now, with GPS and compass firmly in hand, we made off steeply down to the col, and onto the long back of Garbh Chioch Mor. In the cloud, this hill was unforgiving, one of those 'the next top is the peak', but then it never is, until you're ready to give up!

Eventually, the summit came, but we didn't hang about, instead dropping the short distance before finally Sgurr na Ciche was in front of us. This pyramidal peak has the ascent path you would expect, and I for one felt no shame in dropping my pack at the col where we would soon return. Savouring the last peak of the holiday, we powered up the 200m or so final ascent, which included some fun scrambly sections, feeling great once on top, but still without any views to speak off, a shame as we knew our other Knoydart peaks were just beyond the mist.

Off from the col, the descent made its way along a rocky river course, and I was happy that there hadn't been much more rain recently! After that rough slopes slowly took us back into the glen and a very long trek along it. However, with the last orders for food at Invergarry Hotel prominent in our minds, we powered along it as fast as we could. It was then left to Paul to do that awful drive one more time, getting us to the Hotel bang on 21:00 when they graciously accepted our orders!!

One last note, I had tried to give food orders over the phone as soon as we got reception. Although they wouldn't take them, but said they would look out for us. This led to me announcing upon arrival that we had 'phoned ahead'. Promptly, a tourist at the bar, thought I had said we had 'found a head'! You can just imagine the scene, as we burst in with dirty hiking gear looking bedraggled announcing body parts out in the hills. A great end to the week!

While we still had views, Sgurr na Ciche looks good:

Is that rain that cometh?

Sgurr na Ciche was the next photo:

That descent route:

Coming out the other side:

Knoydart and Loch Quoich: Sgurr Mor (132)

2010-07-08T21:20:00.009+01:00

Walk date: 28/05/10 (Friday)
My Munro #'s: 197

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor mor - big peak - 1003m

Statistics:
Duration - 10:45 - 17:15
Distance - 20km
Total ascent - 1500m
Weather - Again very lucky with the weather: rainfall occurred around us but we only got light amounts. Windier and colder than before but still ok.
Team - Paul P
Other hikers: none

Paul P and George 'Knoydart and around' hiking 2010

Gulvain was Bridget's last Munro on this trip and the start of this day saw Paul take her to the station for her onward travels to visit friends. Part II thus got underway and Paul and I set out again toward the Knoydart hills, this time from the western end of Loch Arkaig, which while driving along its twisty single track road, felt like the longest body of water in the world!! Allow a good hour, but to be comfortable 90 mins.

The hike starts in Glen Dessarry, but soon turns a sharp right to head ENE climbing past the Glendessarry Lodge up onto a boggy rough saddle before dropping into the long Glen Kingie.

My book had described a circular tour of the hill, which now stood proudly before us, but as we surveyed it Paul and I deemed this an unnecessary expedition, and instead opted for a direct attack on the corrie. Although steep, progress was very good, and we were pleasantly surprised by our rapidity to the summit. The views over the unvisited territory of Loch Quoich were particularly fine.

With yet another new hostel to find that evening, and cooking to do, we carried on apace, being very impressed with our 6.5 hours turnaround seeing as my book had suggested 9-10!

Starting the climb from Glen Dessarry:

Sgurr Mor over Glen Kingie:

Looking down (E) Glen Kingie:

Up we go, corrie approach:

Looking west over Sgurr na Ciche:

Loch Quoich:

More Quoich:

Paul and the cairn:

Loch Lochy, Loch Arkaig and Loch Eil: Gulvain (161)

2010-07-08T21:15:00.010+01:00

Walk date: 27/05/10 (Thursday)
My Munro #'s: 196

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Goolvan - filthy hill - 987m

Statistics:
Duration - 13:25 - 20:10
Distance - 21.4km
Total ascent - 1400m
Weather - Very lucky with weather: heavy rain during drive, and snow storms visible on neighbouring hills, but nothing on us while walking!
Team - Paul P and Bridget

Other hikers: none

Paul P, Bridget and George 'Knoydart and around' hiking 2010

The trouble with going to Knoydart was the travelling involved either side. This cost us a day's hiking on the way out, but on the way back we were determined to get one in. This led to an afternoon start on Gulvain, a reclusive hill off the A830 Mallaig to Fort William road. This hill would be straightforward with a bike each, but as that wasn't possible, we were faced with a long approach on foot along a fairly uninteresting forest trail.

Nonetheless, foot after foot eventually gives you what you want, and the solitary mound of Gulvain draws into view. A good path leads all the way up to a fine, and long, summit ridge. As would be expected, the actual peak is the second of the two, but in the knowledge that time wasn't going to be a limiting factor despite our initial concerns, it turned out to be a very pleasant stroll, especially as the dramatic weather we could see all around, remained a backdrop.

Chips in Fort William and a beer at Glen Nevis hostel was exactly what we wanted to close off Part I of this trip.

Finally, Gulvain comes into view:

Almost time to go up it!

On the crest, peak one of two revealing itself:

Keep going, more to do yet:

Looking back from the actual peak:

Who can resist a cairn picture?

Which way is the chip shop?

Knoydart and Loch Quoich: Meall Buidhe (222) and Luinne Bheinn (234)

2010-07-08T21:14:00.010+01:00

Walk date: 26/05/10 (Wednesday)
My Munro #'s: 194 and 195

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Myowl booee - yellow hill - 946m

Loonya vyn - hill of anger, or hill of melody - 939m

Statistics:
Duration - 09:00 - 18:30
Distance - 23.8km
Total ascent - 1707m
Weather - warm start, some cold on top including brief snow. ~1 hour of intermittent rain at end of day, but then came fine again.
Team - Paul P and Bridget
Other hikers: 8

Paul P, Bridget and George 'Knoydart and around' hiking 2010

What would you follow a big day with but another big day? Previous year's plans of alternating big and small days were not possible on Knoydart as you just have to take what there is.

Today started then with the same track passing beside the low forest and then heading out along side the Inverie River. Holding our western direction we veered off the track up Gleann Meadail. Despite trying, we couldn't see a path starting up Druim Righeanaich so after a brief spell in the glen, we were faced once again with the joy of hot and tiring drudging up steep grassy slopes. Eventually we broke out onto the top, and found a clear path along the crest, meaning that somewhere down there a path did exist, maybe next time...

As soon as we were on the path the going was easy, and I'd definitely recommend this approach as even with a drop and a climb in hot sun, Meall Buidhe came up surprisingly quickly. After a good lunch with time to spare, the good path continued along with some small scrambly sections to maintain interest.

After a good deal of fine walking in splendid surroundings, we eventually came upon the steep summit slopes of Luinne Beinn, and the path stayed good all the way up. The views were absolutely amazing in all directions, with the neighbouring Sgurr na Ciche to the south-east looking particularly fine.

The descent wasn't too clear to start with, but once down on the pass the going was very quick. Another superb day, ending with a supreme dinner in The Forge.

They're just not shy around here!

Gleann Meadail looking good in the sun:

That crest at An t-Uiriollach:

And then some:

Meall Buidhe looking good:

Strolling along:

The route over to Luinne Bheinn:

Continuing on:

Getting close:

Luinne Bheinn, another fine summit:

Coat on, must be serious:

Loch Hourn below again:

Good weather to finish on:

And a nice dinner to come:

Knoydart and Loch Quoich: Ladhar Bheinn (111)

2010-07-08T21:10:00.014+01:00

Walk date: 25/5/10 (Tuesday)
My Munro #'s: 193

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Laarven - hoof or claw hill - 1020m

Statistics:
Duration - 09:30 - 18:30
Distance - 23.6km
Total ascent - didn't record
Weather - some cold spells with spots of snow but largely fine, and glorious in second half of day.
Team - Paul P and Bridget
Other hikers: 5

Paul P, Bridget and George 'Knoydart and around' hiking 2010

Yes, I was sure I used to have a blog!! Well, with little Xavier arriving on the scene in April I was lucky to get any hiking in at all; the write-up was never part of the deal. The hiking was at the end of May, and I guess a 3 month delay in the write-up is (kinda) acceptable...

So this year the destination was the remote peninsula of Knoydart, staying in a bunkhouse just outside the (only) village of Inverie, accessible only by ferry from Mallaig, unless that is you want to hike in over a day or so from the mainland! There are 7 hills on the peninsula depending where you mark its boundary, we did 3 from Inverie and the rest from the westernmost access point.

The 3 hills on the western end were done in two hikes, the first up being a long, but interesting circular take on Ladhar Beinn. A good track climbs from the Inverie village roads up along side forest and out above the wide basin of the Inverie River. Although there was a choice to ascend immediately onto the southern ridge via Sgurr Coire Choinnichean, we decided to let our porridge digest for a little bit and kept low until we found more reasonable grass slopes just before Loch an Dubh-Lochain. These were still difficult however just for the effort, and it was with glad hearts we finally broke out onto the crest at Coire Dubh.

Once on the ridge progress was good although the incline didn't diminish too much. A nice turn at Aonach Sgoilte's split brought us in line with the summit ridge. A quick lunch gave way to some light scrambling sections, a fine summit and even finer views; over the mainland, Skye, the Western Isles, and the inner hebrides. Marvellous!

After all the work, the descent flew by, as steep grassy slopes proved much easier to go down on! Although the trails through the lower forest seemed to go on an age, the imminent real ale pint at The Forge kept our attention well, and sitting at the bay at the end of the day was a truly great moment.

The ferry ride out just after spotting dolphins!

The superb The Forge pub, now for sale! Anyone?

View from the beer garden.

The trail out, before the climb.

Starting up those grassy slopes!

Fine walking on the ridge.

The only way is up!

Grand scenery!

The summit ascent begins:

Steep drops to the west:

Looking back on the ascent:

Loch Hourn far below:

Satisfied hikers:

This is where it's at!

Looking out to Skye:

The sun beats down in Gleann na Guiserein:

The Cairnwell Hills: Carn Bhac (221) but NOT An Socach (227)

2009-11-01T12:49:00.010Z

Walk date: 31/10/09
My Munro #'s: 192

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
kaarn vachk - hill of peat hags - 946m

Statistics:
Duration - 11:00 - 16:05
Distance - 26.1km
Total ascent - 840m
Weather - a little windy but pleasant for most of day except half-hour torrential rain storm on summit!
Team - with Steve W
Other hikers: 6

Well, ok, we're moving house soon and the clocks have gone back; time for one more hiking session? Of course! Trying to cut down on the drive, I was interested in checking out some more of The Cairnwell Hills. These hills are pretty deep, but I'd heard that some tracks in are pretty good, so it was time to get out the bike rack again. Now, I was up for two hills in the day but my hiking partner Steve had problems getting to my place in the morning so we ended up setting off pretty late and for me that really put the second hill in doubt, hiking in the dark is not my thing!

Fortunately, the track in from Inverey was as good as its reputation and even with a strong headwind we still managed the 10K track in an hour. The half-kilometre before Altanout Lodge however is less good so we dumped the bikes and headed straight up the steep buttress of Carn Creagach. This was a rapid and tiring ascent but it was great fun too, with deer running away as we climbed towards them.

Once on top we were rewarded with fine views north to the Cairngorms, but also a fierce wind. We togged up and made our way along the broad and rocky ground. Unfortunately, a good portion of our climb proved redundant, as we dropped a good 100m before starting the ascent of Carn Bhac.

Once we made the summit, we took our pictures and sat down ready for lunch, only to be rudely interrupted by an intense torrential hail & rainstorm that seemed to come from nowhere. While we clambered to protect our unprotected electronic equipment and get the waterproofs on, we got thoroughly drenched. Still unfed, we retreated down the mountain, following a thin but continuous path that led all the way down Alltan Odhar to Altanour Lodge.

With a brief stop for lunch we were back at the bikes for 15:30. Steve was still up for An Socach, but it would have been at least a two hour climb and descent, meaning the return down the track would have been in pitch black. Possible considering the quality of the track and with our head torches on, but not my cup of tea at all. In my mind, anything in the dark means inadequate planning. Instead, with no wind and slightly more downhill on the return, we were back at the car after only 30 minutes, which gave us time to call for a pint on the way home, now that's planning!

Approaching the head of the glen on the track from Inverey:

The uncompromising Carn Creagach:

A nice bit of sun for Hallowe'en:

Fine views from Carn Creagach (1):

(2):

(3) toward Carn Bhac, today's target:

Steve before the rain hits:

Hmm, is it getting dark? Is that rain?

Goodbye Ceannaichean

2009-09-10T21:32:00.007+01:00

Newsflash: The Munro Society has announced today that Sgurr nan Ceannaichean, which was Munro 284, has been stripped of its Munro status, having been re-measured as 913.4m high (read here). Sgurr nan Ceannaichean is a lovely little hill and I had a great time going up it, which shows how arbitrary all this height focus is, but then we all know that really (as does anyone who's ascended Cairnwell...).

As Sgurr nan Ceannaichean was my 81st Munro all my numbers since then are now out by one. One day I'll update the full history, but don't watch this space.

Catch you all later.

G

UPDATED - ALL NUMBERS ARE NOW CORRECT

Loch Ericht to Loch Laggan: Beinn a' Chlachair (56), Geal Charn (81) and Creag Pitridh (264)

2009-08-23T14:14:00.014+01:00

Walk date: 09/08/09
My Munro #'s: 189, 190 and 191

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Byn a' claachar - stonemason's hill - 1087m

Gyal chaarn - white hill - 1049m

Craig peetrie - Petrie's hill - 924m

Statistics:
Duration - 11:00 - 16:45
Distance - 26.1km
Total ascent - 1346m
Weather - warm and windy with rain at end of day
Team - solo
Other hikers: 3

This hike was actually prompted by a friend wanting something to do while his girlfriend hosted a 'Pampered Chef' party, but after I planned it, he baulked at the 3 hour drive each way, 26km, 3 Munro description and so I ended up going alone! That at least allowed for louder music and an easier time of putting the bike, singular, into the car!

This hike was my first foray into this remote group of hills and I didn't know what to expect. Although this northern trio was more accessible than the rest it was still going to be a long day, hence my putting the bike in. My route book however hadn't suggested it so I was worried that the track would be no good, but it turned out to be excellent, with a lighter incline than the Beinn Dearg day so it served to cover distance well going uphill as well as down.

After at least 4km I reached the end of the bikable stretch at the head of Lochan na h-Earba, hid the bike in a grassy ditch and set about climbing. The going was good along the footpath but the book had suggested leaving it and heading to Beinn a' Chlachair up along the eastern flank of its impressive northern corrie. I duly did this but the going was slow and hot, there was no path and the going was pretty steep. I spent quite a while on this incline cursing the fact that I've been too busy recently to keep up the running.

Once up on the back of this huge hill the way was easier but the rocky nature of the crest meant that it still wasn't simple. Although the views south into the Alder group proper were spectacular, I didn't stay too long on the summit as I knew the day was going to be long and besides, the walking down along the crest would be restful in itself.

My book suggested dropping down to the northside rather than go south on the actual path and then have to fully round the hill to move onward to Geal Charn. I obeyed and it likely was a lot quicker but the freestyle route down diagonally across the contours was pretty tiring. I kept looking for evidence that someone else had taken this option but the only sign I found was a thin trail once I was already down, and I couldn't really tell how long it went on for.

Geal Charn was up next and so I left the path which seemed to just be heading for Lochan na h-Earba and made a direct line for the rocky crop of a summit. The going here was much easier than Beinn a' Chlachair, but when I came to descend I took the line between this and Creag Pitridh and immediately came across a path which went all the way down to the path I'd abandoned, ach well!

After the first two hills, Creag Pitridh being the 264th out of 284 Munros by height came so quick that it took me by surprise. I took in some last striking views of Beinn a' Chlachair and the deeper Alder hills and started my descent, ending again in a triumphant blast on my bike back to the car, the only downside being that a brief spell of rain at this stage turned the car park into a total midge-swarm, and I just couldn't get out of their way quick enough. Otherwise, everything was spot on!

South from the track toward seriously remote hills:

Beinn a' Chlachair and its northern corrie:

Lochan na h-Earba looking good in the morning sun:

Looking northwest as the path starts to climb:

Geal charn from the side of Beinn a' Chlachair:

And likewise over to Creag Pitridh:

Looking across the corrie to Beinn a' Chlachair's summit:

North-west from the summit:

South to the deeper Alder group:

Looking back to Beinn a' Chlachair from Geal Charn:

The pointy summit of Geal chairn:

From Creag Pitridh down to Lochan na h'Earba:

Here comes some serious rain:

The rain on from Beinn a' Chlachair as I got to the bike:

The Tarf and Tilt Hills: Beinn Dearg (124)

2009-07-26T11:58:00.010+01:00

Walk date: 13/07/09
My Munro #'s: 188

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Byn jerrack - red hill - 1008m

Statistics:
Duration - 12:00 - 18:00
Distance - 30km
Total ascent - 1120m
Weather - warm and close but with a heavy downpour
Team - with Steve W
Other hikers: 3

Having an Aberdeen bank holiday could only mean getting a Munro in, and I decided to finally use the new bike I bought last year and head for Beinn Dearg, a rather remote hill. Steve W, having this as one of his 30-something remaining Munros was also up for the long ride in.

Setting off from Old Blair we cycled briefly along a country lane before the route takes to a old track called the Minigaig, an ancient 48km route over to Kingussie. This track rises steeply here through forest and, especially in the close heat, it quickly reduced me to pushing my new stead.

As the forest ends and heathery moorland takes over the track flattens a little but to someone unaccustomed to cycling its shallow rising still proved quite tiring, although it made me keenly look forward to the return leg.

After a few kilometres the track flattens, becomes sandy and the pace is improved. From here the first views of Beinn Dearg's distant red peak are also obtained.

As the track started to descend toward the bothy we ditched the bikes and pressed on by foot, stopping briefly to lunch in the shelter and read some entries in the logbook, including some intriguing accounts of mid-winter visits.

After the bothy the track finally starts on Beinn Dearg itself. Care must be taken not to cross the river and rise to the right, but instead keep to the left and its zig-zags up toward the target. The right hand route appears to be a new deerstalkers track which did NOT appear on my 2004 1:25,000 OS map.

The going itself is very easy although it was made more interesting to us as we finally got caught in one of the heavy downpours we'd been until then successfully avoiding. This stayed with us until we were back down at the bothy but it didn't spoil the rocky summit, which I found much more characterful than expected from photos I'd seen. We did however abandon a plan to descend further up the valley allowing us to walk past Bruar Lodge; we started on it but found that it was to involve a lot of boulder-walking which we didn't fancy in the damp weather.

Once back at the bikes the real highlight of the day was experienced as the 90 minute plus ascent became a sub-30 minute breeze in which I thoroughly tested the tyres and brakes of my new bike. Superb, exhilarating stuff!

First views of Beinn Dearg:

Truly remote hills:

The well-kept bothy in a nice spot:

The logbook made reference to this river being impassable in winter!

Here comes the rain!

The summit approaches:

Ah, to be high-up and wet!

Steve modeling a wet cairn:

On the return leg:

Beinn a' Ghlo from back at Old Blair:

Skye; The Cuillins: Sgurr nan Eag (265), Sgurr Dubh Mor (228) and Sgurr Alasdair (154)

2009-06-21T16:43:00.019+01:00

Walk date: 19/06/09
My Munro #'s: 185, 186 and 187

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor nan ayg - peak of the notches - 924m

Skoor doo moar - big black peak - 944m

Skoor alastar - Alexander's Peak (named after Sheriff Alexander Nicolson who made the first ascent in 1873) - 992m

Statistics:
Weather - periods of wet and wind, but also long periods of calm to recover in.
Team - with guided group
Other hikers: 3, also from Youth Hostel

Paul P and George Skye Trip 2009 - Day 6 (Friday)

Despite low cloud and a damp forecast, we still buckled up for this last day of the guided week, today heading up onto the southern end of the ridge. From the campsite in Glenbrittle, we headed up into Coir a' Ghrunda which entailed reasonable scrambling from early on, again making us thankful to be in a guided group especially with the weather closed in.

Finally we made it to the loch and a return to some flat walking, but soon we were hiking upwards again, albeit on an easier path, and reaching the ridge once more. It was here that we first met some fellow hikers who were also staying at the Youth Hostel and who had discussed with us their plans for a 2-day ridge traverse. We were to see these people at intervals for the rest of the day; it turned out that despite their technical prowess (ropes, climbing skills etc.), they had met their challenge with route-finding on the clagged-in Cuillins, and indeed resorted to following our group on several occasions. It was a fine example of the danger of these hills being multi-layered and able to catch out even experienced hikers.

Once onto the ridge, Sgurr nan Eag involved some winding scrambling but nothing too taxing. It was however extremely wet at this point and the prospect of spending the rest of the day like that was a depressing one. We then retraced our steps before pushing on past Caisteal a' Garbh-coire and then beginning more serious scrambling up onto Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn.

The bags were then happily dumped before heading for some more fine scrambling on the way to Sgurr Dubh Mor, which was difficult in places with challenging route-finding if you didn't know the way already. Thankfully, once perched around the sharp summit, the clouds lifted and gave us fantastic views all around. I was quite struck at this point by how close Sgurr nan Eag was as it had felt like some distance in the cloud.

The break in the weather was to last a good hour and allowed us warm and pleasant walking to the base of Sgurr Alaisdair passing the great gouge of the TD gap. A final session with the rope for a difficult scramble got us up onto this highest point of Skye and the last Munro of the course. By this time the cloud was back but it still felt great to sit on the summit and think of all that had been done over the week.

From the summit easy walking lead down to the top of The Great Stone Shoot, a thousand feet of scree that looks impossible either as an ascent or a descent from across the corrie. Actually being on it is not so bad, although going in a group meant a much more controlled rate of descent which I found much harder than just 'letting go' like usual. Eventually however it does end and from the base easy walking took us away from the Cuillins for the final time. A steak dinner in the Carbost Inn with some of the rest of the group that evening was a perfect cap to a fantastic week of fantastic hills.

Chance of cloud-free Munros?

Finally reaching some flat walking in Coir a' Ghrunda:

Sgurr nan Eag in the wet:

Rain in action:

There was a distinct lack of shelter:

The rain did not dampen the mood:

Rocks in the mist on Sgurr Dubh Mor:

Impressive features on the same:

The push to Sgurr Dudh Mor's summit:

Is that a view? Clouds part on Sgurr Dudh Mor:

Views to the north:

Alasdair and Choinnich beyond the guide:

More of Choinnich:

More thin paths:

Alasdair poking through:

And the In Pin makes an appearance:

Alasdair here we come:

Looking sharp close up:

The TD gap from below:

Heading for the climb:

Looking back at the day's work:

That's our route up:

Getting down with the scrambling:

Paul on Sgurr Alasdair:

And myself:

The gap in which The Great Stone Shoot starts:

Getting down to the shoot:

Andrew starting down the shoot:

Watch out for loose rocks:

Ah Cuillins, we'll be back!

The Achnashellach and Torridon Hills: Beinn Liath Mhor (258) but NOT Sgorr Ruadh (195)

2009-06-21T16:40:00.013+01:00

Walk date: 18/06/09
My Munro #'s: 184

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Byn leea voar - big grey hill - 926m

Skoor rooa - red peak - 962m

Statistics:
Duration - 11:30 - 17:30
Distance - ~12 km
Weather - awful! Extreme wet with periods of strong gusting wind. Hail too!
Team - with Paul P
Other hikers: four other idiots

So close yet so far, the weather kept us off Sgorr Ruadh:

Paul P and George Skye Trip 2009 - Day 5 (Thursday)

Rest day, what rest day? With a day off from the guided routes on Skye, Paul and I drive out to Achnashellach to try and visit the only two hills I haven't been on in this range. The weather was forecast to be on the bad side so we'd changed a planned circular route (also plotted on map) to a T-shaped walk to reduce the exposure as much as possible.

The walk starts by passing through Achnashellach station and rising on a forestry track through pinewood. The track soon levels and then has to be left by taking a cairn-marked path to the left down to the riverbank. From here the path is constant and takes you up onto heathery hillsides and into Coire Lair (avoiding the paths that branch off for the circular version of the walk).

It was entering Coire Lair that the weather started to go bad with the rain starting to pour down heavily. We pushed on upwards including a thin river crossing over thundering waters and made for the bealach. In what was now high wind and hail we missed a path that runs down the south-west ridge of Beinn Liath Mhor and continued over the bealach, eventually getting onto the ridge by climbing up wet grassy slopes besides a thin watercourse from the north-west.

Once up on the ridge we were at the mercy of the wind, but the way was broad enough to continue and we picked our way up between rocky slabs until we hit the path we'd missed just below the final push for the summit.

Stepping on over loose rocks we were soon sat on the drenched top enjoying the moment but with no shelter whatsoever for reward. We were however quite pleased not to have come on the circular version of the hike as the ridge ahead looked to be quite thin in sections.

After a brief stop we quickly moved on out of quite so much exposure, descending on the path that was now obvious all the way back to the bealach. Once there, due to the ease of missing this path when visibility was reduced, I built a mini-cairn at the branch point hoping that it would help future adventurers out.

Speaking of adventure however, our appetite was over for the day. After adventuring against the weather for some hours, despite the proximity of Sgurr Ruadh, Paul and I decided together that enough was enough and we cut our loses, making for the haven of the car in a quickmarch down the glen. An exhilarating day out but one that we knew had come to a close!

Sgurr Ruadh (L) and Beinn Liath Mhor (R):

There's a reason this land is so green!

Our invented route up onto BLM:

The end in sight, a much deserved Beinn Liath Mhor:

I think I had every piece of equipment on by this time:

Still raining:

Sgurr Ruadh looking tempting but very wet:

Relaxing on top of Beinn Liath Mhor:

Lamenting forgetting the picnic blanket:

Skye: Bla Bheinn (252)

2009-06-21T16:39:00.015+01:00

Walk date: 17/06/09
My Munro #'s: 183

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Blaa-vin - possibly blue hill or warm hill - 928m

Statistics:
Weather - a few spots of rain and a little wind but could have been a lot worse!
Team - with guided group.
Other hikers: none!

Paul P and George Skye Trip 2009 - Day 4 (Wednesday)

Despite a deluge overnight and waking up to wild wind and rain, our 9am phonecall to the guide still lead to our meeting up for a hike, this time a reasonable 10:30 for a drive from the Sligachan around to Loch Slapin to take on Bla Bheinn, Skye's non-Cuillin Munro.

The biggest danger on this day was faced immediately as, upon opening the car door, swarms of virulent Scottish midge swooped down to feed on us. With the gear hurriedly slapped on, we paced away from the blighters on the good path climbing slowly into the glen ahead.

After a river crossing which was ok even with all the overnight rain, the path starts to climb toward Coire Uaigneich. The going remains fine despite the increased incline; the only tricky aspect is to remember to leave what appears to be the obvious route to turn back on yourself slightly and begin a more scrambly path that progresses up the broad ridge to the right of Bla Bheinn's deep gully. Any navigation is helpfully made more difficult by magnetic rock on this hill too! Nonetheless, if you find it, this ascent gives excellent views to Clach Glas.

From the top if the weather is good you are rewarded with superb views over to the whole Cuillin ridge which gives this hill a flavour that the main ridge is lacking. Bla Bheinn definitely proved to be a worthy day out especially as the weather wasn't perfect, although it should be noted that it could cause some problems if the cloud is down.

Escape from the midge, onward!

Starting the climb toward Coire Uaigneich:

Scrambling up toward the summit:

A grand view to the Cuillins, Gillean to the right:

Looking back toward Garbh-bheinn:

Myself modeling the main ridge:

Just hanging about at 928m:

Navigation made harder on this one!

Sun greeting our return:

Skye; The Cuillins: Sgurr nan Gillean (191), Am Basteir (242) and Bruach na Frithe (200)

2009-06-21T16:36:00.016+01:00

Walk date: 16/06/09
My Munro #'s: 180, 181 and 182

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor nan geelyan - peak of the young men - 964m

Am Bastar - meaning obscure - 934m

Brooach na freea - slope of the deer forest - 958m

Statistics:
Weather - dry but windy, cold when exposed.
Team - with guided group.
Other hikers: a few but quiet.

Paul P and George Skye Trip 2009 - Day 3 (Tuesday)

Having done the In Pin, we understandably thought that the main difficulty for the week was over with, but we hadn't considered the west ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean. With the chance of another fine, or at least dry day, our guide decided to take us on the other 'hard day'. Despite it being referred to in this way we really couldn't get as excited about it as we had the infamous In Pin, but that was before actually seeing it in the flesh!

Setting off from the Sligachan Hotel and heading toward the Cuillin ridge via Coire a' Bhasteir (with impressive views of the Pinnacle ridge to our left) we were soon stood, roped up again, having climbed up a good scrambly chimney and facing the prospect of three relatively easy but extremely exposed moves which lay between us and the west ridge of Gillean.

The moves were necessary to progress us past two pinnacles; the first had to be skirted around on thin footholds, then there was a step across to the second with big drops continuing beneath, and then a climb up the side of the second! There's something distracting about looking for a place to put your foot and seeing a drop of some few hundred feet on either side of it!

Just the description from the guide was daunting enough, and Paul and I gave each other that 'what the hell?' look, but with Jeff, 69 and Enid, 63 setting off in front and making good, albeit cautious progress, it wasn't the time for two supposedly hardy young(ish) lads to hesitate. It was definitely more daunting than the In Pin, but again with the rope for security and the reassurance from the guide we were soon past it and sitting securely beyond the next few boulders. Apparently the route used to be even harder when a boulder called the 'Gendarme,' stood there blocking the way!

The rest of the way was fine although it did include some rather polished stone at one stage with little chance of stopping if you mistimed the rather precise 'path'. From the summit our guide did point out the 'tourist route', which ascends up the south-eastern ridge and apparently doesn't go beyond a decent scramble; it ends with what looked like quite flat ground, but ground extremely exposed down both sides. It seemed like something I would be up for in dry and not too windy weather, but anything else would require a cancellation!

We retraced our steps down the west ridge but abseiled down the next chimney (Nicholson's) over from the one we climbed up, thus avoiding the exposed moves again.

Next up was the formidable looking Am Basteir. Earlier in the day we had watched some hikers attempt the ridge crest toward the summit only to abandon its exposure including the notorious 'bad step' from which deaths have occurred. Fortunately, our guide knew of a fantastic 'avoidance route' to the south side which joins onto the crest just after the bad step. With this route the progress was actually easy although it should be mentioned that the peak is still sharp and that this is no summit for much of a gathering!

We then returned to Bealach Basteir and skirted around the base of Am Basteir and the fierce looking tooth to rejoin the ridge and stroll onto Bruach na Frithe. After the excitement of the first two peaks of the day, Bruach na Frithe was almost disappointing. Anywhere else it would be a fine peak but it is very much in the shadow of its neighbours here.

With the avoidance route on Basteir, that and Bruach na Frithe are fine peaks for the non-technical hiker, but Gillean from the west (and certainly along the pinnacle ridge!!!) should not be attempted by anyone not comfortable with big exposure. It is not a peak for attempting without prior knowledge either as the actual route looks insane as it is. Being in a group, taking advice and doing reconnaissance are all recommended. Having said that I am up for making a cautious trip along the tourist route in future having seen reportedly its worst part. Watch this space!

A good looking morning for the Northern 3:

The Pinnacle ridge is not for the beginner:

The Red Cuillin looking good as we climb:

Am Basteir in the middle with the tooth on its right:

Knight's Peak on the Pinnacle ridge:

It's getting rocky now! Gillean's west ridge:

Just before the climb, no more path!

Here we go again:

Jeff and Enid lead the way again:

After the exposed moves, with Basteir behind:

No rest for the wicked:

That's a long way down:

The guide (foreground) bringing more up:

Steve and Andrew share the relief:

Back to a good path:

Abseiling back down off Gillean:

The guide doesn't need ropes:

Resting on Basteir:

Ditto:

Basteir and the tooth from below:

Bruach na Frithe was a flat top in comparison:

Skye; The Cuillins: Sgurr a' Mhadaidh (277), Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh (185) [and Sgurr na Bannadich (190)]

2009-06-21T16:34:00.014+01:00

Walk date: 15/06/09
My Munro #'s: 178 and 179

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor a vaady - peak of the fox - 918m

Skoor a ghraytee - peak of torment - 973m

Skoor na banachteech - smallpox peak - 965m

Statistics:
Duration - 09:00-16:00
Weather - perfect again! Light winds and heat; got a little sunburnt!
Team - with guided group.
Other hikers: a few but quiet again.

Paul P and George Skye Trip 2009 - Day 2 (Monday)

Another beautiful day and another satisfying two new Munros. Heading up toward An Doras (the doorway) from Glenbrittle gave us no real problems and allowed us to dump our bags as we branched off for Sgurr a' Mhadaidh and its easy scrambling.

Once back in An Doras we climbed to its top and a couple of tricky moves got us up onto the northeast ridge of Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh. Easy walking followed with nice avoidance routes of scary outcrops of rock leading to the summit.

The next section was billed as the hardest part of the day and equivalent to Aonach Eagach!! However, exposed as it was it seemed absolutely fine to me, at least in dry and clear weather, and we were soon sat on Sgurr Thoramid for a rest.

A short tight path onward lead to the back of Banachdich and more easy walking followed to its top. Having been on this peak before but in dense cloud, I was very happy to take in glorious views all around, especially to the nearby In Pin.

The return home was the ascent route from my time there before which is a fine route but with a lot of tiring loose stone. A fine pint in the Sligachan Hotel afterward made up for it however!

Coire An Doras, and more scree!

An Doras approaches:

Lonely Sgurr Thuilm off the main ridge:

Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh from Sgurr a' Mhadaidh:

Getting to the top of An Doras:

Loch Coruisk looking good:

Two Munros done, time for a sit-down:

Bla Bheinn in the distance, Skye's non-Cuillin Munro:

Sharp routes along the ridge:

Why walk when you can run?

Hang on tight now!

And then some:

Banachdich comes into view with Thoramid

in the foreground:

The southern end with the In Pin poking above Dearg:

A flat spot on the ridge and a leisurely lunch in the sun:

Banachdich next up:

I love these paths!

The ridge does not lack impressive drops:

A bit of peak-spotting:

Evening sun on the Cuillins once down safe:

Skye; The Cuillins: The Inaccessible Pinnacle (Sgurr Dearg) (164) and Sgurr Choinnich (217)

2009-06-21T16:31:00.024+01:00

Walk date: 14/06/09
My Munro #'s: 176 and 177

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor jerrak - red peak - 986m
Skoor veechk chunyeech - Mackenzie's peak (named after John Mackenzie the first Skye guide) - 948m

Statistics:
Duration - 09:00-17:00
Weather - perfect! Warm with light winds, cloud at times but never enclosing. Rain seen but never experienced.
Team - with guided group
Other hikers: a few but relatively quiet

GPS wasn't always appropriate in the guided group so

most of the week was recorded in the old world of paper!

Paul P and George Skye Trip 2009 - Day 1 (Sunday)

Wow! Within two hours of meeting our guide for the week and booting up, we were stood under the impressive Inaccessible Pinnacle (or In Pin as we must refer to it now..) contemplating taking it on this revered peak as the very first Munro of the week! With potentially bad weather for the rest of our time on Skye, our guide George Yeomans decided we should tackle the big one first. In case the weather turned that very afternoon we approached it direct from Glenbrittle rising up on the Dearg ridge.

Dumping the bags and arranging ourselves into three pairs, Paul and I formed the middle group and stood patiently for our guide to take the first pair all the way to the top on two 35m ropes. Paul and I then climbed up the one still tied at the halfway point while also bringing up the second (which had been dropped back down) so that it could also be anchored there allowing Steve and Andrew to use it on their climb. Got that? This is why we booked a guide!

Paul started off in our pair and the going was just like any average scrambling, except for the slight difference of severe drops being close on both sides! Only one move just below the half way point, which required a long stretch with just the left leg being of any use, gave anyone concern (and for a brief moment I mean concern!) and soon enough we were safe at the halfway point.

The rest of the way was even easier although there was a thin flat section to stroll across where the exposure was impressive! Other than that it was a fine seat at the top while waiting to abseil!

After we were all down and had lunch, we descended the tricky slabs on the way past An Stac toward Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, dropped our bags and enjoyed fine scrambling up to our second peak of the day. Our return was back to our bags and then a fun, huge, scree-slope to the lochan before a 'normal' path out! A truly great and memorable day made all the better by having cloud-free great views for almost all of the day. A sudden downpour on Banachdich which left us untouched also led to impressive waterfalls off its slopes as we made our way back into the calm of Glenbrittle.

The night we turn up, grand views of the Cuillins:

Fine scrambling on the Dearg ridge:

The glenbrittle bay looking good in the sun:

Time for a rest:

Looking out to Run:

Choinnich, Alasdair and the Great Stone Shoot:

Approaching the In Pin:

There she blows:

We're going up that?

Two 'hikers' taking it on without ropes:

The safer method:

Sizing it up before we start:

Our guide takes up the rope:

Jeff and Enid making a start:

Yours truly on the awkward step:

The guide has seen it all before:

Halfway smiles from Paul:

And much relief from myself:

Our guide arranging things at the top:

Having a seat before the abseil:

C'mon! That the most ominous Munro in the bag!

Paul getting on with his abseil:

Jeff follows suit:

Taking it all in:

Moving on down steep slabs past An Stac:

One last look back up at the In Pin:

An Stac can thankfully be walked-around:

Choinnich looking good:

Impressive 'paths' around here:

The In Pin and An Stac from below:

Break time on the fine peak of Choinnich:

No press!

A natural arch on Choinnich:

Great fun descending the An Stac screes!

That's a lot of scree! Down in Coire Lagan:

The Dundonnell and Fisherfield Hills: Sgurr Ban (157), Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair (115) and Beinn Tarsuinn (238)

2009-04-06T18:17:00.016+01:00

Walk date: 04/05/09
My Munro #'s: 173, 174 and 175

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor bawn - light-coloured peak- 989m

Moolach corrie veechk erachar - summit of the corrie of Farquhar's son - 1018m

Byn tarshin - transverse - 936m

Statistics:
Duration - 08:00-20:00
Distance - 34.2km
Total ascent - 1552m
Weather - very cold, very wet, very windy.
Team - Solo
Other hikers: two from afar

Don't worry, I'm not dead, although my long-delayed first hike of the season seemed to have other ideas at times! Firstly an apology for my absence, but since February I have returned in totality to the dark realm of DIY, with a full re-fitting of the bathroom, including tiling, plastering and painting; it's by no means finished, but I just couldn't stand another weekend in my dusty work clothes rather than in my walking boots. As such, this last weekend saw me return to Ullapool with the Friday and Saturday nights booked into the hostel there, and a plan for hikes on both Saturday and Sunday.

Well, Saturday's hike was the true goal of the weekend as it saw me return to Fisherfield to try and finish the Epic that Paul and I started last year (read account here). That day was some of the wettest walking I've ever done, and although rain was due on this day, it was also supposed to clear up and so I knew it couldn't be as bad. Well...

OK, It certainly wasn't as wet, but it was still soaked, and this being April, the wet at altitude was much colder and indeed for most of the day it was full on snow. I started as before with the long route in westward alongside Loch a' Bhraoin, although this time I walked rather than attempt to cycle along the exhausting loose-pebbled track. When I finally got to the glen of Allt Cul Doireachan I made my way to the river directly and, jumping across a deep section by the near bank, just walked on through the remaining wide but shallow flow.

Having opened the gate to the hills I set about getting onto them, heading first for Sgurr Ban rather than keeping with my original plan of using Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair as an entry point as that way I didn't have to repeat-climb any of the Munros. I made my way up beside the amazing gneiss slabs of these hills (apparently unique in Scotland) and then across to just behind Meallan an Laoigh for the final broad approach as the cloud descended.

The climb up the rest of Sgurr Ban was easy enough but the rain was starting to turn cold. Stupidly, due to the day starting relatively warm I had only put on my light gloves and hadn't put the rain-protector on my rucksack. This meant that my winter gloves at the top of the bag were wet by the time I wanted to put them on. Fortunately, due to the position of the hill I was protected against the increasing wind on the higher slopes. On the wide, rounded summit, however, this shelter disappeared, such was my reward for walking up a shallow snowbank which was long enough that I couldn't see anything but white anywhere for a matter of minutes! With the return of the wind the rain helpfully turned to hail, and I didn't do anything but tap the cairn before dropping to Cab Coire nan Clach and an extremely cold change of batteries for the GPS which saw me resorting to my keys as my fingers were too numb for such a dextrous task.

The climb up Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair was a different affair; it is one steep mountain and my heart sank at the prospect of trying to determine my own route up. Thankfully, with a little wandering back and forth I spotted the excellent path despite the poor visibility and made surprisingly fast progress up the highest summit of the day. Again the top itself was graced with high winds and cold temperature, and on this occasion, the introduction of fresh snowfall.

Unfortunately, due to the cold and a wish to descend quickly I mistook a line on my GPS for the route on to Beinn Tarsuinn, when it was actually a plotted possible route down/up from this hill eastward toward home! I only discovered this after descending 100m and it took a lot of will power to retrace my steps to the summit and then descend the intended south-western flank onward.

The route down this flank was easy enough and a great path on the north-western side of Meall Garbh allowed avoidance of this top. An extremely quick stop for a much-needed late-lunch on this path saw me ready to take on the snowbound lump of Beinn Tarsuinn. There might be a path up this hill, but I don't know as on this day it would have been buried under fresh snow! The climb up Beinn Tarsuinn presented no difficulties beyond the weather and I was soon enough hugging the icy cairn. I managed a couple of quick photos before an about-turn as I started having warm thoughts of dropping below the cloud-line while at the same time cursing the forecasted 'clearing up in the afternoon'!

I returned to the col between Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair and Meall Grabh and then dropped off south-east into Coire Mhic Fearchair before re-entering the glen of Allt Cul Doireachan.

Once into the glen of Allt Cul Doireachan, I made my way over rough and wet grass heading east toward Loch a’ Bhraoin. Having avoided the major rivers the going was relatively quick, but I knew I still had the ‘gentle crossing’ that had surprised Paul and me last year to come. This was over Abhhainn Loch a’ Bhraoin, and like last year it had been a mere trickle in the morning, but upon my return it was in full gush. With the loch almost in sight I had no patience for it however, and quickly found a spot where it was safe to jump over the worst and land stably but wetly on some good (submerged) stones and then walk through the rest of it.

After that the loch came easy and apart from a few tricky crossings of the fords along the shore there was nothing to report apart from an insulting cold wind starting up down the glen; a final ‘we told you so’ from the hills I think although it was accompanied by the first sighting of the sun all day! Eventually I left the loch behind me and caught sight of the car. Once in it at 20:00, a mere 12 hours after setting out, I immediately turned on the engine and racked up the heat, stuffed myself with the rest of my lunch and reflected on a huge but satisfying day out. I was so tired that along with high winds greeting me on Sunday morning I didn’t head for the hills that day at all, instead opting for a leisurely drive back to Aberdeen with a paper and a pint to boot, now that’s what I call an excursion!!

NEWSFLASH: I have now booked guided Cuillin ridge hiking on Skye in June, and Paul is coming along! Hopefully I will manage more hiking before then but that will be a heck of a week to report on! See you soon.

The first view of the hills:

MCMF (L) and Sgurr Ban (R), the summits in cloud:

My crossing point for Allt Cul Doireachan:

The impressive gneiss slabs up close:

And from above:

The only photo from the summit of Sgurr Ban:

Likewise for Mullach Coire Mhic Fearchair:

Enjoying the snow down the south-western flank:

A view (!) down toward Allt a Bhealaich Odhair:

The snowy top of Beinn Tarsuinn:

And its icy cairn:

Looking back east:

Looking up at Sgurr Dubh from Coire Mhic Fearchair:

A final look back up the glen:

After 11 hours this was no time for it to start clearing up:

Glen Affric and Strathfarrar: Tom a' Choinich (41) and Toll Creagach (77)

2008-11-17T19:37:00.015Z

Walk date: 16/11/08
My Munro #'s: 171 and 172

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Towm a choanyeech - hill of the moss - 1111m
Tow kraykach - rocky hollow - 1054m

Statistics:
Duration - 10:30-15:30
Distance - 17.3km
Total ascent - 1063m
Weather - perfect winter's day. Cold with fine sun. Cold but light wind on top of Tom a' Choinich.
Team - Skuz, Ed, Mark and American Dave
Other hikers: many

AMC Strawberry Cottage Meet 2008

I had planned another big day for this Sunday walk, taking in Mam Sodhail, Carn Eige and Beinn Fhionnlaidh, but I found out Saturday night that we were packing up and moving back down the glen in the morning and walking from there. This mattered little as some of the group were already planning to go up what would be two brand new Munros for me once they got down there and so I happily latched on.

With weather thankfully in total contrast to Saturday's, we parked up and set off at a very brisk pace, moving well up the slightly boggy but otherwise good path on gently rising slopes with views to the fine peak of Tom a' Choinich opening up ahead of us.

Once things flattened out, a split in the path signaled an increase in the ascent as we started to zig-zag up the lower slopes of the hill alongside Allt Toll Easa. We left this path at Creag na h-lnghinn and made our way up along this south eastern ridge. The terrain included rock and ice and myself and American Dave made slower progress than our experienced compadres. Nonetheless, the going was fine enough and we were soon strolling on top of a frozen world offering a majestic vista.

With a cold wind greeting us at the summit, we pressed on to the col straightaway. The descent off the ENE ridge was easier than the ascent had been, but it still required concentration, and a departure from the ice and snowed-up path for safety reasons!!

After a fine lunch progress was fast up the second peak of the day, the much more tame Toll Creagach. This offered excellent views across Loch Mullardoch to the hills of the East Benula Forest, every single one an untouched Munro for me!!

The pace on from the summit was even faster, and I demonstrated my 'controlled falling' descent method well; it made such a nice change to get to do it in the daylight! After a fabulous but exhausting weekend adventure, it was then fine to get home too!

Tom a' Choinich makes its first appearance:

The route ahead up Creag na h-lnghinn:

Looking back down our ascent route:

Carn Eige and its pals to the west:

Tom a' Choinich summit complete with the rest of the group:

Getting closer:

Choose your colour, and let's move out:

Toll Creagach is a more gentle beast:

Looking back up our descent from Tom:

Loch Mullardoch from the col looking WNW:

Looking back to Tom a' Choinich:

Time for a brew:

Me modeling many unvisited Munros:

Steep grassy slopes and rest of group:

Glen Affric and Strathfarrar: An Socach (269), Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan (22) and Mullach na Dheiragain (167)

2008-11-17T18:57:00.009Z

Walk date: 15/11/08
My Munro #'s: 168, 169 and 170

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
An sochkach - the snout - 921m

Skoor nan keroanan - peak of the quarters - 1151m
Moolach na yerakan - possibly summit of the hawk - 982m

Statistics:
Duration - 08:30-18:00 (dark at 17:00!)
Distance - 30.5km
Total ascent - 1680m?
Weather - wet at first, then a period of dry before hail and wind once height had been gained. A calm spell on Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan and moving onto Mullach na Dheiragain before a change for the worst with intense wind and hail for rest of day at height!
Team - with American Dave
Other hikers: none

Better routes up and down and a nice corrie-skirting:

AMC Strawberry Cottage Meet 2008

Now, a weekend away hiking at this time of year really is pushing it for me, but what a weekend it turned out to be! Going with the hiking club meant having access to the very remote Strawberry Cottage strategically placed high up in the already remote Glen Affric. From here an early start in wet weather saw myself and American Dave set out on an ambitiously big day for this time of year.

First up was An Socach, a nice-looking and approachable peak sat on the highpoint toward one end of the horse-shoe ridge that comprised our day out. A good albeit wet path took us onto the ridge end and good walking took us to the stumpy cairn.

From here the weather kept taking brief turns for the worse, and the drop and climb up the big peak of Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan was punctuated by bursts of hail and gusts of high wind. Good photographs became a very low priority! However, the route on gave good walking and there were no technical problems with actually getting up this huge chunk of rock; it was just a case of whether the legs would hold out or not.

A break in the weather then gave us time for lunch there as well as a chance for a discussion with regard to whether we would press on for Mullach na Dheiragain or not. This is just over 4km north of Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan, and it would make the time a little tight, but with the weather holding and the prospect of having to seek out the awkward hill at some point in future, we both were eager to go for it on this day.

Progress was good on the way out, but as we made the final climb up toward the broad back of Mullach na Dheiragain, the full fury of the wind and hail was unleashed into our unsuspecting faces. Progress was very slow; walking was difficult and often we had to stop and steady ourselves against the onslaught of ~65mph gusts of wind. The summit took some coming, but we didn't hang about after all the effort, instead turning on the spot (at 2pm) and heading back immediately.

The return leg was much slower due to the conditions, and I kept one eye on my watch as we staggered on. Some time was saved by skirting around the top of the corrie rather than repeating Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan, and scrambing up the northern wall of the ridge between that hill and An Socach. We then aimed to descend along the path to the (summer only) Alltbeithe Youth Hostel, but despite starting on it, in failing light as it hit bog, we lost all sign of it and instead made our way in the last drops of daylight down fine grassy slopes to the path alongside River Affric.

We hit the path in darkness at 17:00, and with head-torches on we made decent progress for the remaining 4km, hitting the glorious cottage with its fire, drying room, food, beer and chat at a very respectable 18:00. A very big but satisfying day out.

Looking south to Glen Shiel as height is gained:

The An Socach ridge up ahead:

An Socach and its stumpy cairn as the weather turned:

A brief cloud-break over Abhainn Siithidh:

Looking back toward Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan:

And looking back to the An Socach ridge:

American Dave heading toward Mullach na Dheiragain

and bad weather!