The Cairnwell Hills: Carn Bhac (221) but NOT An Socach (227)

Walk date: 31/10/09
My Munro #'s: 193

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
kaarn vachk - hill of peat hags - 946m

Statistics:
Duration - 11:00 - 16:05
Distance - 26.1km
Total ascent - 840m
Weather - a little windy but pleasant for most of day except half-hour torrential rain storm on summit!
Team - with Steve W
Other hikers: 6

Well, ok, we're moving house soon and the clocks have gone back; time for one more hiking session? Of course! Trying to cut down on the drive, I was interested in checking out some more of The Cairnwell Hills. These hills are pretty deep, but I'd heard that some tracks in are pretty good, so it was time to get out the bike rack again. Now, I was up for two hills in the day but my hiking partner Steve had problems getting to my place in the morning so we ended up setting off pretty late and for me that really put the second hill in doubt, hiking in the dark is not my thing!

Fortunately, the track in from Inverey was as good as its reputation and even with a strong headwind we still managed the 10K track in an hour. The half-kilometre before Altanout Lodge however is less good so we dumped the bikes and headed straight up the steep buttress of Carn Creagach. This was a rapid and tiring ascent but it was great fun too, with deer running away as we climbed towards them.

Once on top we were rewarded with fine views north to the Cairngorms, but also a fierce wind. We togged up and made our way along the broad and rocky ground. Unfortunately, a good portion of our climb proved redundant, as we dropped a good 100m before starting the ascent of Carn Bhac.

Once we made the summit, we took our pictures and sat down ready for lunch, only to be rudely interrupted by an intense torrential hail & rainstorm that seemed to come from nowhere. While we clambered to protect our unprotected electronic equipment and get the waterproofs on, we got thoroughly drenched. Still unfed, we retreated down the mountain, following a thin but continuous path that led all the way down Alltan Odhar to Altanour Lodge.

With a brief stop for lunch we were back at the bikes for 15:30. Steve was still up for An Socach, but it would have been at least a two hour climb and descent, meaning the return down the track would have been in pitch black. Possible considering the quality of the track and with our head torches on, but not my cup of tea at all. In my mind, anything in the dark means inadequate planning. Instead, with no wind and slightly more downhill on the return, we were back at the car after only 30 minutes, which gave us time to call for a pint on the way home, now that's planning!

Approaching the head of the glen on the track from Inverey:

The uncompromising Carn Creagach:

A nice bit of sun for Hallowe'en:

Fine views from Carn Creagach (1):

(2):

(3) toward Carn Bhac, today's target:

Steve before the rain hits:

Hmm, is it getting dark? Is that rain?

Goodbye Ceannaichean

Newsflash: The Munro Society has announced today that Sgurr nan Ceannaichean, which was Munro 284, has been stripped of its Munro status, having been re-measured as 913.4m high (read here). Sgurr nan Ceannaichean is a lovely little hill and I had a great time going up it, which shows how arbitrary all this height focus is, but then we all know that really (as does anyone who's ascended Cairnwell...).

As Sgurr nan Ceannaichean was my 81st Munro all my numbers since then are now out by one. One day I'll update the full history, but don't watch this space.

Catch you all later.

G

UPDATED - ALL NUMBERS ARE NOW CORRECT

Loch Ericht to Loch Laggan: Beinn a' Chlachair (56), Geal Charn (81) and Creag Pitridh (264)

Walk date: 09/08/09
My Munro #'s: 190, 191 and 192

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Byn a' claachar - stonemason's hill - 1087m

Gyal chaarn - white hill - 1049m

Craig peetrie - Petrie's hill - 924m

Statistics:
Duration - 11:00 - 16:45
Distance - 26.1km
Total ascent - 1346m
Weather - warm and windy with rain at end of day
Team - solo
Other hikers: 3

This hike was actually prompted by a friend wanting something to do while his girlfriend hosted a 'Pampered Chef' party, but after I planned it, he baulked at the 3 hour drive each way, 26km, 3 Munro description and so I ended up going alone! That at least allowed for louder music and an easier time of putting the bike, singular, into the car!

This hike was my first foray into this remote group of hills and I didn't know what to expect. Although this northern trio was more accessible than the rest it was still going to be a long day, hence my putting the bike in. My route book however hadn't suggested it so I was worried that the track would be no good, but it turned out to be excellent, with a lighter incline than the Beinn Dearg day so it served to cover distance well going uphill as well as down.

After at least 4km I reached the end of the bikable stretch at the head of Lochan na h-Earba, hid the bike in a grassy ditch and set about climbing. The going was good along the footpath but the book had suggested leaving it and heading to Beinn a' Chlachair up along the eastern flank of its impressive northern corrie. I duly did this but the going was slow and hot, there was no path and the going was pretty steep. I spent quite a while on this incline cursing the fact that I've been too busy recently to keep up the running.

Once up on the back of this huge hill the way was easier but the rocky nature of the crest meant that it still wasn't simple. Although the views south into the Alder group proper were spectacular, I didn't stay too long on the summit as I knew the day was going to be long and besides, the walking down along the crest would be restful in itself.

My book suggested dropping down to the northside rather than go south on the actual path and then have to fully round the hill to move onward to Geal Charn. I obeyed and it likely was a lot quicker but the freestyle route down diagonally across the contours was pretty tiring. I kept looking for evidence that someone else had taken this option but the only sign I found was a thin trail once I was already down, and I couldn't really tell how long it went on for.

Geal Charn was up next and so I left the path which seemed to just be heading for Lochan na h-Earba and made a direct line for the rocky crop of a summit. The going here was much easier than Beinn a' Chlachair, but when I came to descend I took the line between this and Creag Pitridh and immediately came across a path which went all the way down to the path I'd abandoned, ach well!

After the first two hills, Creag Pitridh being the 264th out of 284 Munros by height came so quick that it took me by surprise. I took in some last striking views of Beinn a' Chlachair and the deeper Alder hills and started my descent, ending again in a triumphant blast on my bike back to the car, the only downside being that a brief spell of rain at this stage turned the car park into a total midge-swarm, and I just couldn't get out of their way quick enough. Otherwise, everything was spot on!

South from the track toward seriously remote hills:

Beinn a' Chlachair and its northern corrie:

Lochan na h-Earba looking good in the morning sun:

Looking northwest as the path starts to climb:

Geal charn from the side of Beinn a' Chlachair:

And likewise over to Creag Pitridh:

Looking across the corrie to Beinn a' Chlachair's summit:

North-west from the summit:

South to the deeper Alder group:

Looking back to Beinn a' Chlachair from Geal Charn:

The pointy summit of Geal chairn:

From Creag Pitridh down to Lochan na h'Earba:

Here comes some serious rain:

The rain on from Beinn a' Chlachair as I got to the bike:

The Tarf and Tilt Hills: Beinn Dearg (124)

Walk date: 13/07/09
My Munro #'s: 189

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Byn jerrack - red hill - 1008m

Statistics:
Duration - 12:00 - 18:00
Distance - 30km
Total ascent - 1120m
Weather - warm and close but with a heavy downpour
Team - with Steve W
Other hikers: 3

Having an Aberdeen bank holiday could only mean getting a Munro in, and I decided to finally use the new bike I bought last year and head for Beinn Dearg, a rather remote hill. Steve W, having this as one of his 30-something remaining Munros was also up for the long ride in.

Setting off from Old Blair we cycled briefly along a country lane before the route takes to a old track called the Minigaig, an ancient 48km route over to Kingussie. This track rises steeply here through forest and, especially in the close heat, it quickly reduced me to pushing my new stead.

As the forest ends and heathery moorland takes over the track flattens a little but to someone unaccustomed to cycling its shallow rising still proved quite tiring, although it made me keenly look forward to the return leg.

After a few kilometres the track flattens, becomes sandy and the pace is improved. From here the first views of Beinn Dearg's distant red peak are also obtained.

As the track started to descend toward the bothy we ditched the bikes and pressed on by foot, stopping briefly to lunch in the shelter and read some entries in the logbook, including some intriguing accounts of mid-winter visits.

After the bothy the track finally starts on Beinn Dearg itself. Care must be taken not to cross the river and rise to the right, but instead keep to the left and its zig-zags up toward the target. The right hand route appears to be a new deerstalkers track which did NOT appear on my 2004 1:25,000 OS map.

The going itself is very easy although it was made more interesting to us as we finally got caught in one of the heavy downpours we'd been until then successfully avoiding. This stayed with us until we were back down at the bothy but it didn't spoil the rocky summit, which I found much more characterful than expected from photos I'd seen. We did however abandon a plan to descend further up the valley allowing us to walk past Bruar Lodge; we started on it but found that it was to involve a lot of boulder-walking which we didn't fancy in the damp weather.

Once back at the bikes the real highlight of the day was experienced as the 90 minute plus ascent became a sub-30 minute breeze in which I thoroughly tested the tyres and brakes of my new bike. Superb, exhilarating stuff!

First views of Beinn Dearg:

Truly remote hills:

The well-kept bothy in a nice spot:

The logbook made reference to this river being impassable in winter!

Here comes the rain!

The summit approaches:

Ah, to be high-up and wet!

Steve modeling a wet cairn:

On the return leg:

Beinn a' Ghlo from back at Old Blair:

Skye; The Cuillins: Sgurr nan Eag (265), Sgurr Dubh Mor (228) and Sgurr Alasdair (154)

Walk date: 19/06/09
My Munro #'s: 186, 187 and 188

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor nan ayg - peak of the notches - 924m

Skoor doo moar - big black peak - 944m

Skoor alastar - Alexander's Peak (named after Sheriff Alexander Nicolson who made the first ascent in 1873) - 992m

Statistics:
Weather - periods of wet and wind, but also long periods of calm to recover in.
Team - with guided group
Other hikers: 3, also from Youth Hostel

Paul P and George Skye Trip 2009 - Day 6 (Friday)

Despite low cloud and a damp forecast, we still buckled up for this last day of the guided week, today heading up onto the southern end of the ridge. From the campsite in Glenbrittle, we headed up into Coir a' Ghrunda which entailed reasonable scrambling from early on, again making us thankful to be in a guided group especially with the weather closed in.

Finally we made it to the loch and a return to some flat walking, but soon we were hiking upwards again, albeit on an easier path, and reaching the ridge once more. It was here that we first met some fellow hikers who were also staying at the Youth Hostel and who had discussed with us their plans for a 2-day ridge traverse. We were to see these people at intervals for the rest of the day; it turned out that despite their technical prowess (ropes, climbing skills etc.), they had met their challenge with route-finding on the clagged-in Cuillins, and indeed resorted to following our group on several occasions. It was a fine example of the danger of these hills being multi-layered and able to catch out even experienced hikers.

Once onto the ridge, Sgurr nan Eag involved some winding scrambling but nothing too taxing. It was however extremely wet at this point and the prospect of spending the rest of the day like that was a depressing one. We then retraced our steps before pushing on past Caisteal a' Garbh-coire and then beginning more serious scrambling up onto Sgurr Dubh an Da Bheinn.

The bags were then happily dumped before heading for some more fine scrambling on the way to Sgurr Dubh Mor, which was difficult in places with challenging route-finding if you didn't know the way already. Thankfully, once perched around the sharp summit, the clouds lifted and gave us fantastic views all around. I was quite struck at this point by how close Sgurr nan Eag was as it had felt like some distance in the cloud.

The break in the weather was to last a good hour and allowed us warm and pleasant walking to the base of Sgurr Alaisdair passing the great gouge of the TD gap. A final session with the rope for a difficult scramble got us up onto this highest point of Skye and the last Munro of the course. By this time the cloud was back but it still felt great to sit on the summit and think of all that had been done over the week.

From the summit easy walking lead down to the top of The Great Stone Shoot, a thousand feet of scree that looks impossible either as an ascent or a descent from across the corrie. Actually being on it is not so bad, although going in a group meant a much more controlled rate of descent which I found much harder than just 'letting go' like usual. Eventually however it does end and from the base easy walking took us away from the Cuillins for the final time. A steak dinner in the Carbost Inn with some of the rest of the group that evening was a perfect cap to a fantastic week of fantastic hills.

Chance of cloud-free Munros?

Finally reaching some flat walking in Coir a' Ghrunda:

Sgurr nan Eag in the wet:

Rain in action:

There was a distinct lack of shelter:

The rain did not dampen the mood:

Rocks in the mist on Sgurr Dubh Mor:

Impressive features on the same:

The push to Sgurr Dudh Mor's summit:

Is that a view? Clouds part on Sgurr Dudh Mor:

Views to the north:

Alasdair and Choinnich beyond the guide:

More of Choinnich:

More thin paths:

Alasdair poking through:

And the In Pin makes an appearance:

Alasdair here we come:

Looking sharp close up:

The TD gap from below:

Heading for the climb:

Looking back at the day's work:

That's our route up:

Getting down with the scrambling:

Paul on Sgurr Alasdair:

And myself:

The gap in which The Great Stone Shoot starts:

Getting down to the shoot:

Andrew starting down the shoot:

Watch out for loose rocks:

Ah Cuillins, we'll be back!

The Achnashellach and Torridon Hills: Beinn Liath Mhor (258) but NOT Sgorr Ruadh (195)

Walk date: 18/06/09
My Munro #'s: 185

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Byn leea voar - big grey hill - 926m

Skoor rooa - red peak - 962m

Statistics:
Duration - 11:30 - 17:30
Distance - ~12 km
Weather - awful! Extreme wet with periods of strong gusting wind. Hail too!
Team - with Paul P
Other hikers: four other idiots

So close yet so far, the weather kept us off Sgorr Ruadh:

Paul P and George Skye Trip 2009 - Day 5 (Thursday)

Rest day, what rest day? With a day off from the guided routes on Skye, Paul and I drive out to Achnashellach to try and visit the only two hills I haven't been on in this range. The weather was forecast to be on the bad side so we'd changed a planned circular route (also plotted on map) to a T-shaped walk to reduce the exposure as much as possible.

The walk starts by passing through Achnashellach station and rising on a forestry track through pinewood. The track soon levels and then has to be left by taking a cairn-marked path to the left down to the riverbank. From here the path is constant and takes you up onto heathery hillsides and into Coire Lair (avoiding the paths that branch off for the circular version of the walk).

It was entering Coire Lair that the weather started to go bad with the rain starting to pour down heavily. We pushed on upwards including a thin river crossing over thundering waters and made for the bealach. In what was now high wind and hail we missed a path that runs down the south-west ridge of Beinn Liath Mhor and continued over the bealach, eventually getting onto the ridge by climbing up wet grassy slopes besides a thin watercourse from the north-west.

Once up on the ridge we were at the mercy of the wind, but the way was broad enough to continue and we picked our way up between rocky slabs until we hit the path we'd missed just below the final push for the summit.

Stepping on over loose rocks we were soon sat on the drenched top enjoying the moment but with no shelter whatsoever for reward. We were however quite pleased not to have come on the circular version of the hike as the ridge ahead looked to be quite thin in sections.

After a brief stop we quickly moved on out of quite so much exposure, descending on the path that was now obvious all the way back to the bealach. Once there, due to the ease of missing this path when visibility was reduced, I built a mini-cairn at the branch point hoping that it would help future adventurers out.

Speaking of adventure however, our appetite was over for the day. After adventuring against the weather for some hours, despite the proximity of Sgurr Ruadh, Paul and I decided together that enough was enough and we cut our loses, making for the haven of the car in a quickmarch down the glen. An exhilarating day out but one that we knew had come to a close!

Sgurr Ruadh (L) and Beinn Liath Mhor (R):

There's a reason this land is so green!

Our invented route up onto BLM:

The end in sight, a much deserved Beinn Liath Mhor:

I think I had every piece of equipment on by this time:

Still raining:

Sgurr Ruadh looking tempting but very wet:

Relaxing on top of Beinn Liath Mhor:

Lamenting forgetting the picnic blanket:

Skye: Bla Bheinn (252)

Walk date: 17/06/09
My Munro #'s: 184

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Blaa-vin - possibly blue hill or warm hill - 928m


Statistics:
Weather - a few spots of rain and a little wind but could have been a lot worse!
Team - with guided group.
Other hikers: none!

Paul P and George Skye Trip 2009 - Day 4 (Wednesday)

Despite a deluge overnight and waking up to wild wind and rain, our 9am phonecall to the guide still lead to our meeting up for a hike, this time a reasonable 10:30 for a drive from the Sligachan around to Loch Slapin to take on Bla Bheinn, Skye's non-Cuillin Munro.

The biggest danger on this day was faced immediately as, upon opening the car door, swarms of virulent Scottish midge swooped down to feed on us. With the gear hurriedly slapped on, we paced away from the blighters on the good path climbing slowly into the glen ahead.

After a river crossing which was ok even with all the overnight rain, the path starts to climb toward Coire Uaigneich. The going remains fine despite the increased incline; the only tricky aspect is to remember to leave what appears to be the obvious route to turn back on yourself slightly and begin a more scrambly path that progresses up the broad ridge to the right of Bla Bheinn's deep gully. Any navigation is helpfully made more difficult by magnetic rock on this hill too! Nonetheless, if you find it, this ascent gives excellent views to Clach Glas.

From the top if the weather is good you are rewarded with superb views over to the whole Cuillin ridge which gives this hill a flavour that the main ridge is lacking. Bla Bheinn definitely proved to be a worthy day out especially as the weather wasn't perfect, although it should be noted that it could cause some problems if the cloud is down.

Escape from the midge, onward!

Starting the climb toward Coire Uaigneich:

Scrambling up toward the summit:


A grand view to the Cuillins, Gillean to the right:

Looking back toward Garbh-bheinn:

Myself modeling the main ridge:

Just hanging about at 928m:

Navigation made harder on this one!

Sun greeting our return:

Skye; The Cuillins: Sgurr nan Gillean (191), Am Basteir (242) and Bruach na Frithe (200)

Walk date: 16/06/09
My Munro #'s: 181, 182 and 183

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor nan geelyan - peak of the young men - 964m

Am Bastar - meaning obscure - 934m

Brooach na freea - slope of the deer forest - 958m

Statistics:
Weather - dry but windy, cold when exposed.
Team - with guided group.
Other hikers: a few but quiet.

Paul P and George Skye Trip 2009 - Day 3 (Tuesday)

Having done the In Pin, we understandably thought that the main difficulty for the week was over with, but we hadn't considered the west ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean. With the chance of another fine, or at least dry day, our guide decided to take us on the other 'hard day'. Despite it being referred to in this way we really couldn't get as excited about it as we had the infamous In Pin, but that was before actually seeing it in the flesh!

Setting off from the Sligachan Hotel and heading toward the Cuillin ridge via Coire a' Bhasteir (with impressive views of the Pinnacle ridge to our left) we were soon stood, roped up again, having climbed up a good scrambly chimney and facing the prospect of three relatively easy but extremely exposed moves which lay between us and the west ridge of Gillean.

The moves were necessary to progress us past two pinnacles; the first had to be skirted around on thin footholds, then there was a step across to the second with big drops continuing beneath, and then a climb up the side of the second! There's something distracting about looking for a place to put your foot and seeing a drop of some few hundred feet on either side of it!

Just the description from the guide was daunting enough, and Paul and I gave each other that 'what the hell?' look, but with Jeff, 69 and Enid, 63 setting off in front and making good, albeit cautious progress, it wasn't the time for two supposedly hardy young(ish) lads to hesitate. It was definitely more daunting than the In Pin, but again with the rope for security and the reassurance from the guide we were soon past it and sitting securely beyond the next few boulders. Apparently the route used to be even harder when a boulder called the 'Gendarme,' stood there blocking the way!

The rest of the way was fine although it did include some rather polished stone at one stage with little chance of stopping if you mistimed the rather precise 'path'. From the summit our guide did point out the 'tourist route', which ascends up the south-eastern ridge and apparently doesn't go beyond a decent scramble; it ends with what looked like quite flat ground, but ground extremely exposed down both sides. It seemed like something I would be up for in dry and not too windy weather, but anything else would require a cancellation!

We retraced our steps down the west ridge but abseiled down the next chimney (Nicholson's) over from the one we climbed up, thus avoiding the exposed moves again.

Next up was the formidable looking Am Basteir. Earlier in the day we had watched some hikers attempt the ridge crest toward the summit only to abandon its exposure including the notorious 'bad step' from which deaths have occurred. Fortunately, our guide knew of a fantastic 'avoidance route' to the south side which joins onto the crest just after the bad step. With this route the progress was actually easy although it should be mentioned that the peak is still sharp and that this is no summit for much of a gathering!

We then returned to Bealach Basteir and skirted around the base of Am Basteir and the fierce looking tooth to rejoin the ridge and stroll onto Bruach na Frithe. After the excitement of the first two peaks of the day, Bruach na Frithe was almost disappointing. Anywhere else it would be a fine peak but it is very much in the shadow of its neighbours here.

With the avoidance route on Basteir, that and Bruach na Frithe are fine peaks for the non-technical hiker, but Gillean from the west (and certainly along the pinnacle ridge!!!) should not be attempted by anyone not comfortable with big exposure. It is not a peak for attempting without prior knowledge either as the actual route looks insane as it is. Being in a group, taking advice and doing reconnaissance are all recommended. Having said that I am up for making a cautious trip along the tourist route in future having seen reportedly its worst part. Watch this space!

A good looking morning for the Northern 3:

The Pinnacle ridge is not for the beginner:

The Red Cuillin looking good as we climb:

Am Basteir in the middle with the tooth on its right:


Knight's Peak on the Pinnacle ridge:

It's getting rocky now! Gillean's west ridge:

Just before the climb, no more path!

Here we go again:

Jeff and Enid lead the way again:


After the exposed moves, with Basteir behind:

No rest for the wicked:

That's a long way down:

The guide (foreground) bringing more up:

Steve and Andrew share the relief:

Back to a good path:

Abseiling back down off Gillean:


The guide doesn't need ropes:



Resting on Basteir:

Ditto:

Basteir and the tooth from below:


Bruach na Frithe was a flat top in comparison:

Skye; The Cuillins: Sgurr a' Mhadaidh (277), Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh (185) [and Sgurr na Bannadich (190)]

Walk date: 15/06/09
My Munro #'s: 179 and 180

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor a vaady - peak of the fox - 918m

Skoor a ghraytee - peak of torment - 973m

Skoor na banachteech - smallpox peak - 965m

Statistics:
Duration - 09:00-16:00
Weather - perfect again! Light winds and heat; got a little sunburnt!
Team - with guided group.
Other hikers: a few but quiet again.

Paul P and George Skye Trip 2009 - Day 2 (Monday)

Another beautiful day and another satisfying two new Munros. Heading up toward An Doras (the doorway) from Glenbrittle gave us no real problems and allowed us to dump our bags as we branched off for Sgurr a' Mhadaidh and its easy scrambling.

Once back in An Doras we climbed to its top and a couple of tricky moves got us up onto the northeast ridge of Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh. Easy walking followed with nice avoidance routes of scary outcrops of rock leading to the summit.

The next section was billed as the hardest part of the day and equivalent to Aonach Eagach!! However, exposed as it was it seemed absolutely fine to me, at least in dry and clear weather, and we were soon sat on Sgurr Thoramid for a rest.

A short tight path onward lead to the back of Banachdich and more easy walking followed to its top. Having been on this peak before but in dense cloud, I was very happy to take in glorious views all around, especially to the nearby In Pin.

The return home was the ascent route from my time there before which is a fine route but with a lot of tiring loose stone. A fine pint in the Sligachan Hotel afterward made up for it however!

Coire An Doras, and more scree!


An Doras approaches:


Lonely Sgurr Thuilm off the main ridge:


Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh from Sgurr a' Mhadaidh:

Getting to the top of An Doras:


Loch Coruisk looking good:


Two Munros done, time for a sit-down:

Bla Bheinn in the distance, Skye's non-Cuillin Munro:

Sharp routes along the ridge:


Why walk when you can run?

Hang on tight now!

And then some:

Banachdich comes into view with Thoramid

in the foreground:

The southern end with the In Pin poking above Dearg:

A flat spot on the ridge and a leisurely lunch in the sun:


Banachdich next up:

I love these paths!


The ridge does not lack impressive drops:


A bit of peak-spotting:


Evening sun on the Cuillins once down safe:

Skye; The Cuillins: The Inaccessible Pinnacle (Sgurr Dearg) (164) and Sgurr Choinnich (217)

Walk date: 14/06/09
My Munro #'s: 177 and 178

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor jerrak - red peak - 986m
Skoor veechk chunyeech - Mackenzie's peak (named after John Mackenzie the first Skye guide) - 948m

Statistics:
Duration - 09:00-17:00
Weather - perfect! Warm with light winds, cloud at times but never enclosing. Rain seen but never experienced.
Team - with guided group
Other hikers: a few but relatively quiet

GPS wasn't always appropriate in the guided group so

most of the week was recorded in the old world of paper!

Paul P and George Skye Trip 2009 - Day 1 (Sunday)

Wow! Within two hours of meeting our guide for the week and booting up, we were stood under the impressive Inaccessible Pinnacle (or In Pin as we must refer to it now..) contemplating taking it on this revered peak as the very first Munro of the week! With potentially bad weather for the rest of our time on Skye, our guide George Yeomans decided we should tackle the big one first. In case the weather turned that very afternoon we approached it direct from Glenbrittle rising up on the Dearg ridge.

Dumping the bags and arranging ourselves into three pairs, Paul and I formed the middle group and stood patiently for our guide to take the first pair all the way to the top on two 35m ropes. Paul and I then climbed up the one still tied at the halfway point while also bringing up the second (which had been dropped back down) so that it could also be anchored there allowing Steve and Andrew to use it on their climb. Got that? This is why we booked a guide!

Paul started off in our pair and the going was just like any average scrambling, except for the slight difference of severe drops being close on both sides! Only one move just below the half way point, which required a long stretch with just the left leg being of any use, gave anyone concern (and for a brief moment I mean concern!) and soon enough we were safe at the halfway point.

The rest of the way was even easier although there was a thin flat section to stroll across where the exposure was impressive! Other than that it was a fine seat at the top while waiting to abseil!

After we were all down and had lunch, we descended the tricky slabs on the way past An Stac toward Sgurr Mhic Choinnich, dropped our bags and enjoyed fine scrambling up to our second peak of the day. Our return was back to our bags and then a fun, huge, scree-slope to the lochan before a 'normal' path out! A truly great and memorable day made all the better by having cloud-free great views for almost all of the day. A sudden downpour on Banachdich which left us untouched also led to impressive waterfalls off its slopes as we made our way back into the calm of Glenbrittle.

The night we turn up, grand views of the Cuillins:

Fine scrambling on the Dearg ridge:

The glenbrittle bay looking good in the sun:

Time for a rest:

Looking out to Run:

Choinnich, Alasdair and the Great Stone Shoot:

Approaching the In Pin:

There she blows:


We're going up that?

Two 'hikers' taking it on without ropes:



The safer method:


Sizing it up before we start:


Our guide takes up the rope:

Jeff and Enid making a start:

Yours truly on the awkward step:


The guide has seen it all before:

Halfway smiles from Paul:


And much relief from myself:


Our guide arranging things at the top:


Having a seat before the abseil:


C'mon! That the most ominous Munro in the bag!

Paul getting on with his abseil:


Jeff follows suit:

Taking it all in:

Moving on down steep slabs past An Stac:

One last look back up at the In Pin:

An Stac can thankfully be walked-around:



Choinnich looking good:

Impressive 'paths' around here:

The In Pin and An Stac from below:

Break time on the fine peak of Choinnich:

No press!

A natural arch on Choinnich:

Great fun descending the An Stac screes!

That's a lot of scree! Down in Coire Lagan:

The Dundonnell and Fisherfield Hills: Sgurr Ban (157), Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair (115) and Beinn Tarsuinn (238)

Walk date: 04/05/09
My Munro #'s: 174, 175 and 176

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor bawn - light-coloured peak- 989m

Moolach corrie veechk erachar - summit of the corrie of Farquhar's son - 1018m

Byn tarshin - transverse - 936m

Statistics:
Duration - 08:00-20:00
Distance - 34.2km
Total ascent - 1552m
Weather - very cold, very wet, very windy.
Team - Solo
Other hikers: two from afar

Don't worry, I'm not dead, although my long-delayed first hike of the season seemed to have other ideas at times! Firstly an apology for my absence, but since February I have returned in totality to the dark realm of DIY, with a full re-fitting of the bathroom, including tiling, plastering and painting; it's by no means finished, but I just couldn't stand another weekend in my dusty work clothes rather than in my walking boots. As such, this last weekend saw me return to Ullapool with the Friday and Saturday nights booked into the hostel there, and a plan for hikes on both Saturday and Sunday.

Well, Saturday's hike was the true goal of the weekend as it saw me return to Fisherfield to try and finish the Epic that Paul and I started last year (read account here). That day was some of the wettest walking I've ever done, and although rain was due on this day, it was also supposed to clear up and so I knew it couldn't be as bad. Well...

OK, It certainly wasn't as wet, but it was still soaked, and this being April, the wet at altitude was much colder and indeed for most of the day it was full on snow. I started as before with the long route in westward alongside Loch a' Bhraoin, although this time I walked rather than attempt to cycle along the exhausting loose-pebbled track. When I finally got to the glen of Allt Cul Doireachan I made my way to the river directly and, jumping across a deep section by the near bank, just walked on through the remaining wide but shallow flow.

Having opened the gate to the hills I set about getting onto them, heading first for Sgurr Ban rather than keeping with my original plan of using Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair as an entry point as that way I didn't have to repeat-climb any of the Munros. I made my way up beside the amazing gneiss slabs of these hills (apparently unique in Scotland) and then across to just behind Meallan an Laoigh for the final broad approach as the cloud descended.

The climb up the rest of Sgurr Ban was easy enough but the rain was starting to turn cold. Stupidly, due to the day starting relatively warm I had only put on my light gloves and hadn't put the rain-protector on my rucksack. This meant that my winter gloves at the top of the bag were wet by the time I wanted to put them on. Fortunately, due to the position of the hill I was protected against the increasing wind on the higher slopes. On the wide, rounded summit, however, this shelter disappeared, such was my reward for walking up a shallow snowbank which was long enough that I couldn't see anything but white anywhere for a matter of minutes! With the return of the wind the rain helpfully turned to hail, and I didn't do anything but tap the cairn before dropping to Cab Coire nan Clach and an extremely cold change of batteries for the GPS which saw me resorting to my keys as my fingers were too numb for such a dextrous task.

The climb up Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair was a different affair; it is one steep mountain and my heart sank at the prospect of trying to determine my own route up. Thankfully, with a little wandering back and forth I spotted the excellent path despite the poor visibility and made surprisingly fast progress up the highest summit of the day. Again the top itself was graced with high winds and cold temperature, and on this occasion, the introduction of fresh snowfall.

Unfortunately, due to the cold and a wish to descend quickly I mistook a line on my GPS for the route on to Beinn Tarsuinn, when it was actually a plotted possible route down/up from this hill eastward toward home! I only discovered this after descending 100m and it took a lot of will power to retrace my steps to the summit and then descend the intended south-western flank onward.

The route down this flank was easy enough and a great path on the north-western side of Meall Garbh allowed avoidance of this top. An extremely quick stop for a much-needed late-lunch on this path saw me ready to take on the snowbound lump of Beinn Tarsuinn. There might be a path up this hill, but I don't know as on this day it would have been buried under fresh snow! The climb up Beinn Tarsuinn presented no difficulties beyond the weather and I was soon enough hugging the icy cairn. I managed a couple of quick photos before an about-turn as I started having warm thoughts of dropping below the cloud-line while at the same time cursing the forecasted 'clearing up in the afternoon'!

I returned to the col between Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair and Meall Grabh and then dropped off south-east into Coire Mhic Fearchair before re-entering the glen of Allt Cul Doireachan.

Once into the glen of Allt Cul Doireachan, I made my way over rough and wet grass heading east toward Loch a’ Bhraoin. Having avoided the major rivers the going was relatively quick, but I knew I still had the ‘gentle crossing’ that had surprised Paul and me last year to come. This was over Abhhainn Loch a’ Bhraoin, and like last year it had been a mere trickle in the morning, but upon my return it was in full gush. With the loch almost in sight I had no patience for it however, and quickly found a spot where it was safe to jump over the worst and land stably but wetly on some good (submerged) stones and then walk through the rest of it.

After that the loch came easy and apart from a few tricky crossings of the fords along the shore there was nothing to report apart from an insulting cold wind starting up down the glen; a final ‘we told you so’ from the hills I think although it was accompanied by the first sighting of the sun all day! Eventually I left the loch behind me and caught sight of the car. Once in it at 20:00, a mere 12 hours after setting out, I immediately turned on the engine and racked up the heat, stuffed myself with the rest of my lunch and reflected on a huge but satisfying day out. I was so tired that along with high winds greeting me on Sunday morning I didn’t head for the hills that day at all, instead opting for a leisurely drive back to Aberdeen with a paper and a pint to boot, now that’s what I call an excursion!!

NEWSFLASH: I have now booked guided Cuillin ridge hiking on Skye in June, and Paul is coming along! Hopefully I will manage more hiking before then but that will be a heck of a week to report on! See you soon.

The first view of the hills:

MCMF (L) and Sgurr Ban (R), the summits in cloud:

My crossing point for Allt Cul Doireachan:

The impressive gneiss slabs up close:

And from above:


The only photo from the summit of Sgurr Ban:

Likewise for Mullach Coire Mhic Fearchair:

Enjoying the snow down the south-western flank:

A view (!) down toward Allt a Bhealaich Odhair:

The snowy top of Beinn Tarsuinn:

And its icy cairn:

Looking back east:

Looking up at Sgurr Dubh from Coire Mhic Fearchair:

A final look back up the glen:

After 11 hours this was no time for it to start clearing up:

Glen Affric and Strathfarrar: Tom a' Choinich (41) and Toll Creagach (77)

Walk date: 16/11/08
My Munro #'s: 172 and 173

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Towm a choanyeech - hill of the moss - 1111m
Tow kraykach - rocky hollow - 1054m

Statistics:
Duration - 10:30-15:30
Distance - 17.3km
Total ascent - 1063m
Weather - perfect winter's day. Cold with fine sun. Cold but light wind on top of Tom a' Choinich.
Team - Skuz, Ed, Mark and American Dave
Other hikers: many

AMC Strawberry Cottage Meet 2008

I had planned another big day for this Sunday walk, taking in Mam Sodhail, Carn Eige and Beinn Fhionnlaidh, but I found out Saturday night that we were packing up and moving back down the glen in the morning and walking from there. This mattered little as some of the group were already planning to go up what would be two brand new Munros for me once they got down there and so I happily latched on.

With weather thankfully in total contrast to Saturday's, we parked up and set off at a very brisk pace, moving well up the slightly boggy but otherwise good path on gently rising slopes with views to the fine peak of Tom a' Choinich opening up ahead of us.

Once things flattened out, a split in the path signaled an increase in the ascent as we started to zig-zag up the lower slopes of the hill alongside Allt Toll Easa. We left this path at Creag na h-lnghinn and made our way up along this south eastern ridge. The terrain included rock and ice and myself and American Dave made slower progress than our experienced compadres. Nonetheless, the going was fine enough and we were soon strolling on top of a frozen world offering a majestic vista.

With a cold wind greeting us at the summit, we pressed on to the col straightaway. The descent off the ENE ridge was easier than the ascent had been, but it still required concentration, and a departure from the ice and snowed-up path for safety reasons!!

After a fine lunch progress was fast up the second peak of the day, the much more tame Toll Creagach. This offered excellent views across Loch Mullardoch to the hills of the East Benula Forest, every single one an untouched Munro for me!!

The pace on from the summit was even faster, and I demonstrated my 'controlled falling' descent method well; it made such a nice change to get to do it in the daylight! After a fabulous but exhausting weekend adventure, it was then fine to get home too!

Tom a' Choinich makes its first appearance:

The route ahead up Creag na h-lnghinn:

Looking back down our ascent route:

Carn Eige and its pals to the west:

Tom a' Choinich summit complete with the rest of the group:

Getting closer:

Choose your colour, and let's move out:

Toll Creagach is a more gentle beast:

Looking back up our descent from Tom:

Loch Mullardoch from the col looking WNW:

Looking back to Tom a' Choinich:

Time for a brew:

Me modeling many unvisited Munros:

Steep grassy slopes and rest of group:

Glen Affric and Strathfarrar: An Socach (269), Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan (22) and Mullach na Dheiragain (167)

Walk date: 15/11/08
My Munro #'s: 169, 170 and 171

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
An sochkach - the snout - 921m

Skoor nan keroanan - peak of the quarters - 1151m
Moolach na yerakan - possibly summit of the hawk - 982m

Statistics:
Duration - 08:30-18:00 (dark at 17:00!)
Distance - 30.5km
Total ascent - 1680m?
Weather - wet at first, then a period of dry before hail and wind once height had been gained. A calm spell on Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan and moving onto Mullach na Dheiragain before a change for the worst with intense wind and hail for rest of day at height!
Team - with American Dave
Other hikers: none

Better routes up and down and a nice corrie-skirting:

AMC Strawberry Cottage Meet 2008

Now, a weekend away hiking at this time of year really is pushing it for me, but what a weekend it turned out to be! Going with the hiking club meant having access to the very remote Strawberry Cottage strategically placed high up in the already remote Glen Affric. From here an early start in wet weather saw myself and American Dave set out on an ambitiously big day for this time of year.

First up was An Socach, a nice-looking and approachable peak sat on the highpoint toward one end of the horse-shoe ridge that comprised our day out. A good albeit wet path took us onto the ridge end and good walking took us to the stumpy cairn.

From here the weather kept taking brief turns for the worse, and the drop and climb up the big peak of Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan was punctuated by bursts of hail and gusts of high wind. Good photographs became a very low priority! However, the route on gave good walking and there were no technical problems with actually getting up this huge chunk of rock; it was just a case of whether the legs would hold out or not.

A break in the weather then gave us time for lunch there as well as a chance for a discussion with regard to whether we would press on for Mullach na Dheiragain or not. This is just over 4km north of Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan, and it would make the time a little tight, but with the weather holding and the prospect of having to seek out the awkward hill at some point in future, we both were eager to go for it on this day.

Progress was good on the way out, but as we made the final climb up toward the broad back of Mullach na Dheiragain, the full fury of the wind and hail was unleashed into our unsuspecting faces. Progress was very slow; walking was difficult and often we had to stop and steady ourselves against the onslaught of ~65mph gusts of wind. The summit took some coming, but we didn't hang about after all the effort, instead turning on the spot (at 2pm) and heading back immediately.

The return leg was much slower due to the conditions, and I kept one eye on my watch as we staggered on. Some time was saved by skirting around the top of the corrie rather than repeating Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan, and scrambing up the northern wall of the ridge between that hill and An Socach. We then aimed to descend along the path to the (summer only) Alltbeithe Youth Hostel, but despite starting on it, in failing light as it hit bog, we lost all sign of it and instead made our way in the last drops of daylight down fine grassy slopes to the path alongside River Affric.

We hit the path in darkness at 17:00, and with head-torches on we made decent progress for the remaining 4km, hitting the glorious cottage with its fire, drying room, food, beer and chat at a very respectable 18:00. A very big but satisfying day out.

Looking south to Glen Shiel as height is gained:

The An Socach ridge up ahead:

An Socach and its stumpy cairn as the weather turned:

A brief cloud-break over Abhainn Siithidh:

Looking back toward Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan:

And looking back to the An Socach ridge:

American Dave heading toward Mullach na Dheiragain

and bad weather!

The Mamlorn Hills: Meall Ghaordie (93)

Walk date: 02/11/08
My Munro #'s: 168

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Myowl girday - possibly rounded hill of the shoulder, arm, hand - 1039m

Statistics:
Duration - 11:45 - 16:45
Distance - 7.5 km
Total ascent - 871m
Weather - perfect; cold with blue skies and almost absent wind.
Team - Sonia and Steve W.
Other hikers: several.

Thanks to a last-minute phonecall from Steve, an expected domestic Sunday turned into a gorgeous Munro-bagging sojourn to the Mamlorn Hills. Tempted by a rare early-November good weather prediction, our happy trio set off to a three-way mutually unvisited peak near the village of Killin some three hours away from Aberdeen.

The good weather held as we made our approach to Glen Lochay and we set off in cold air but with a perfectly blue sky and fine winter sun. The going however was for the most part incredibly boring as we made our slow way over pathless, bracken-clad grassland.

Eventually, this terrain gave way to a fine rocky top. Having seen plenty of snow on neighbouring hills we hoped that today's summit would have also caught some and we were not disappointed; after a dull start Meall Ghaordie came good with amazing views across Glen Lyon to Ben Nevis and Glencoe, and also to the Alder group, the Lawers group, Ben Vorlich, and Ben More and Stob Binnein, all while standing on gorgeous soft white snow.

The view was so good that we stayed there for quite some time, enjoying a much needed but essentially cold lunch. Every second worthwhile, one of the best hikes of the year!!

Target in focus, starting those grassy slopes:

The more interesting top comes into view:

Plodding on through the snow:

Steve and Sonia gaining some height:


Glen Lyon looking good:

Ben Nevis in the centre:

The summit was not a place to stay overnight:

Ben More and Stob Binnein to the south:

Sonia kicks off the descent:


The Lawers group in the late afternoon sun:

Well, come on. It's this way!

More Ben More:

The sunset on the Lawers group:

The Tyndrum Hills: Beinn Dubhchraig (175) and Ben Oss (101)

Walk date: 18/10/08
My Munro #'s: 166 and 167

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Byn doo-craig - black rock hill - 978m

Byn oss - loch outlet hill - 1029m

Statistics:
Duration - 11:30 - 17:00
Distance - 19.5km
Total ascent - 1649m
Weather - periods of heavy rain, blustery with strong gusts on top giving high wind chill; calming towards end of day.
Team - solo.
Other hikers: many.

Although the season is getting mature, I couldn't help but try and squeeze some more hill action in before it's well and truly over. Contemplating my choices I had initially considered a full weekend away, but given the extreme weather possibilities at this time of year, I wimped out preferring instead to return to a warm house and my own bed. Face it, I'm getting old.

The walk starts out from the car park at Dailrigh on a good farmer's track that follows a single track railway line for a spell. As the railway is crossed by a bridge, a thin path trails off to the right, crosses Allt Gleann Auchreoch and heads up the north side of Allt Coire Dubhchraig toward Beinn Dubhchraig. However, I only know this as later on I took it as a descent route having never seen it on the way up. Instead for the ascent I made for the next footbridge upstream and climbed the grassy slopes on the south side on Allt Coire Duhchraig along very thin but steady trails. The path on the north side is much wider and obvious but my progress down it later on was very slow as at this time of year it had become one huge bog.

Whichever path you take early on becomes academic at the upper forest boundary as the paths meet up. At the junction there's a bit of stream-crossing required but it wasn't too taxing even when in full-flow like today. After the junction the gradient increases as the broad ridge of Beinn Dubhchraig is approached but the path remains good.

As I made my way onto the crest, the full strength of the wind that I had been protected from suddenly hit me in the face. I turned and made my slow way along the short path to the summit, stopping often to steady myself against cold and wet gusts of I would guess up to 60 mph. I was very happy that this was only a two-hill day and that the route to Ben Oss would mean I'd also be protected as I climbed that even higher peak.

A good path leads on toward the mercifully high bealach between the two hills. Once there however, the path should be left and a line taken over the crest of Ben Oss's north eastern ridge. I stayed on the good path too far (I do wonder where it leads!) and had to make an ascent from the south west, although I can't have been the first as I found myself a path there!

I was surprised how quickly Ben Oss was climbed given its extra height but before I knew it I had spotted the cairn before me. Being back in the wind and without any views to savour I merely said hello to it and returned quickly to the bealach readying myself to climb the back of Beinn Dubhchraig again. It was here that a welcomed change in the weather started to develop, with the wind dropping and the cloud lifting suddenly offering great views south to Loch Lomond and north to Ben Ghuirn. I then descended in autumnal splendour with the light and the colours of the trees offering a great panorama. Of course, within ten metres of the car it started raining torrentially again, but that slice of wonder had made the whole day worthwhile.

C'mon, it's still crossable; the upstream bridge:

Looking back east as Beinn Dubhchraig is started:

Beware, there be bog!

The windswept top of Beinn Dubhchraig:

Ben Oss standing proud above Coire Garbh:

Careful how long you stay on this 'good path':

Looking back to Beinn Dubhchraig:

Ben Oss was of course in cloud:

Beinn Dubchraig again:

South over Coire Garbh:

Ben Ghuirn to the north I think!

Coire Garbh and Loch Oss:

Loch Lomond just in view:

Beinn Dubchraig on the return looked so much nicer!

What no handrail? The downstream bridge:

Looking back up the glen once down:

I told you it was wet!

An example of that wind:

Run Fatboy Run

Well I managed the Inverness Marathon on Sunday; my actual chip time was 4 hours and 45 seconds so I am well-pleased.  Thanks to all who encouraged me along!

UPDATE!  As I am a gadget-addict, I couldn't help but buy myself a Garmin GPS Forerunner 305 training aide to help with the marathon.  This watch-like device gives you your pace and heart-rate as you run along; it also allows you to set a desired finishing time and then gives an alarm if your pace slacks off too much and allows you to run against a virtual partner.

It also comes with some 'training centre' software, but I hadn't got around to using it until now.  It's brilliant!!  Below is a screen capture of the marathon itself, the blue line is my speed and the grey is the elevation!  This should prove quite useful for future runs, and lose me hours on the computer for a change!

The Crianlarich Hills: Cruach Ardrain (87) and Beinn Tulaichean (220)

Walk date: 17/08/08
My Munro #'s: 164 and 165

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Kroo-ach ar-dran - stack of the high peaks - 1046m

Byn too-lach-an - hill of the hillocks - 946m

Statistics:
Duration - 10:50 - 16:50
Distance - 16.7km
Total ascent - 1305m
Weather - drizzle early on, drying off before returning. End of day came nice and warm.
Team - solo.
Other hikers: many.

The northern end of Cruach Ardrain offers a nice walk up:

Despite a work-party the night before and only six hours of sleep I somehow managed to get up and drive back to Crianlarich to visit my last pair from these hills, Cruach Ardrain and Beinn Tulaichean.

As only light drizzle greeted me I declined the waterproof trousers and made my way along the good farm track and then the branch off to cross the River Falloch and the climb along a thin path up the grass slopes toward Grey Height where paths coming through the forest join on. Here the trousers would have come in handy as the grass was extremely wet and walking through this left my legs soaked! No matter, I decided all that I needed to do was up the pace to warm myself up and so I made great progress along the northern ridge of Cruach Ardrain, which makes for very pleasant walking, being thin enough for great views all around but wide enough to be strolling terrain.

After a small drop in height the remaining 200m or so needs to be climbed. Having seen nothing else I ended up on a path that skirted the western side of Cruach Ardrain and that meant I had to walk a way along its flat top to actually reach the summit. I know that there is a more direct path as I later saw people coming down it, but my way worked too!

The route down to the col was very straightforward on the good path and as there was then only 120m to climb before I knew it I was up on Beinn Tulaichean. Once again there was nothing but cloud on the hill so I returned to the col for a good lunch with some fine views, which then included the summit behind me!

One advantage of my alternative path up Cruach Ardrain was then that I could use it for a more direct return, which I did as the sun came out giving fine views and a nice end to the Crianlarich Hills.

A better footbridge than Ben More starts us off:

A good incline beside the forest is rewarded with fine views:

Even better on Grey Height north to Crianlarich and Tyndrum:

And east down into Coire Ardrain:

Approaching the cloud on Cruach Ardrain:

At the end of the flat top is a welcomed cairn:

From the corrie before Beinn Tulaichean to the SW:

The more diminutive Beinn Tulaichean has a cairn to match:

Stob Garbh from the corrie; not an easy link to Cruach Ardrain:

Looking back to see Beinn Tulaichean just about cloud-free:

Another good view SW:

Grey height again but it really was a decent view!

The Crianlarich Hills: Ben More (16) and Stob Binnein (18)

Walk date: 21/06/08
My Munro #'s: 162 and 163

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Byn Moar - big hill - 1174m

Stop binyan - hill of the anvil - 1165m

Statistics:
Duration - 11:10 - 16:40
Distance - 12.7 km
Total ascent - 1570m
Weather - Extremely muggy. Very warm indeed but cloud never burned off. Midge heaven!
Team - solo.
Other hikers: many.

An alternative descent gave me some variety:

In possession of a shiny new car and with Sonia committed to work on the Saturday, I just couldn't help driving the near 3 hours to Crianlarich and finally taking in the mighty Ben More and its almost-as-high neighbour Stob Binnein. I had to be quick about it however as we had dinner plans back in Aberdeen, and so this was set up as an enjoyable stomp of a day out.

The worst part of this walk is that there is no car park at the start of the route, which means you have to spend 10 minutes or so walking at the edge of a fast main road. Once this is over, a sign leads to around the yard of Benmore Farm onto a farm track that zig-zags gently up the lower slopes. Don't get used to this as after a gate the track remains flat and heads south while Ben More stands imposingly above. Continue south on the track for a short distance and you start to see several little trails heading on up. I took one of these early on and carried on as I climbed to see the odd sign of someone else having done the same thing. Eventually however I came upon a path more to the north-western flank and this offered slighty faster progress.

This climb up is a serious feat, rising as it does from 160m to the summit at 1174m with little variety in the gradient. Although I was determined to do it as fast as I could I still needed a couple of water breaks and the sweat was dripping off me. Nothing lasts forever though and with persistence, two hours after leaving the car, I found myself enjoying the rounded summit. Unfortunately, despite the summit being cloud-free by about 10m, the rest of the visible world comprised swirling white mist and photo opportunities were few.

After the climb up it was a strange feeling to be descending, but fortunately it wasn't for long as Bealach eadar-dha Bheinn is still very high at 860m. The climb to Stob Binnein, although requiring work, was by comparison to the start of the day, hardly noticeable. Still deep in cloud and with the cairn covered in midges I didn't hang about but returned to the bealach for lunch.

With no views likely on a return up Ben More I decided to check out a path leading off the bealach west toward Benmore Burn as a descent route instead. This thin but good path allowed fast progress but in places was indistinguishable from bog and I wondered how hard it would be to stick to on an ascent; indeed I would recommend accepting the honest slog up Ben More's front instead. However as a descent this path worked fine and it took me down to the farm track again, albeit at its highest point, but I stuck with it to return to the road and enjoyed seeing the 'bridge' that's there on the map, an illustration of how maps cannot always be trusted (see last photo)! With a book time of 6-8 hours, I didn't feel too bad at 4.5, and I still think I could have managed 4 if it wasn't so hot!

I'm sure it looks good when there's no cloud!

On the good path on Ben More into the cloud!

Getting rocky near to the top:

How dare people be up there before me?

I set up this pic from the trig point, t'was a little cloudy!

Briefly, a view to the route on south:

The summit of Stob Binnein at 1165m, still covered in midges!

Some teasing cloud breaks back toward the bealach:

Almost seeing the summit of Ben More from the bealach:

South up Benmore Glen from my descent:

Benmore Glen forest and the farm track:

The bridge at the top of the farm track has seen better days!

Film review: The Inheritance

Last night we went to see an independent Scottish film called The Inheritance which apparently cost the sum total of £5000.  The 60 minutes we viewed were a very good use of such a small amount of money (well, in the film world it is small).  

The film is directed by Charles Henri Belleville and stars Tim Barrow and Fraser Sivewright as brothers David and Fraser who meet up after a 5-year absence following the death of their disappointment of a father and it follows their progress on a road trip in their father's VW camper van from Edinburgh to Skye, which they have to do with a mysterious key in hand in order to collect their inheritance.  Along the way the brothers attempt to reconnect, but can they manage it despite their antagonistic nature of their relationship?

The Inheritance was nominated Best UK Feature at Raindance last October and subsequently won the inaugral Raindance Award at the 2007 British Independent Film Awards, gained two nominations at the 2008 BAFTA Scotland New Talent Awards, and was nominated Best Debut UK Feature at London's East End Film Festival.

There are several reasons for this.  The film works on many levels.  The cinematography is amazing for the budget.  The landscape (Glencoe, Glenshee, Skye), filmed in snowy February, is stunning, and gives amazing light that makes the film look like it has had major tonal work applied, except that it is all natural.  The actors are superb with the rapport being very believable and the events that are portrayed are interesting in both a storytelling way as well as in a metaphorical sense.

And so, this is where there are spoilers, as the end is another strong point of the film being ambiguous and open to interpretation.  Towards the end of the journey the brothers pick up an attractive female hitch-hiker who falls for David and sleeps with him when they stay in a bothy one night.  However, on reaching Skye, she makes a move on Fraser and the next morning their camper van is gone.  Angered, David drags Fraser off on foot to the point where the inheritance is promised, but only to find a deserted graveyard.  Fraser mocks him, explaining that the road trip was their father's attempt to make them connect and that that was their inheritence.  In argument, David then reveals that their father had phoned him two weeks before his death also expressing this desire and telling him something.  The cocky Fraser then becomes the angered one and tries to force the extra information from David, accidentally throttling him in the process.

Part of the Q&A afterwards was taken up exploring the meaning of the ending, with suggestions including that David didn't actually sleep with the girl but knew she was their hidden sister and was angered when Fraser ruined this fresh familial link.  Now, after an evening to sleep on it and with Shane Meadow's Dead Man's Shoes somewhere in my head, here is what I think.  The story should not be delineated in the literal sense as it entirely wraps up only in the metaphorical.  The camper van (from the father) represents the containment of the brotherhood, with the road-trip being the finite time they have to sort it out (as applies to anyone with such a relationship).  The progress that is haltingly made is tested by the external force applied in the shape of the girl (if she even existed).  David has a connection with her, but Fraser supposedly being the more stable and confident brother sees his chance and takes it.  This proves that the brotherly connection is a weakness and not a strength to these two, and consequently the camper van is gone.  When there is nothing in the graveyard and Fraser mocks David, David drops the key (the 'key' to the road-trip and their last chance of a relationship).  From here, the balance shifts from one extreme to the other as Fraser realises David knows something and is angered by it, proving that although now cemented as destructive, their bond is still there, and Fraser sees it through, becoming horrified by what he has done.  In allusions to their upbringing, it is clear that both brothers were severely affected by an impossible-to-please alcoholic father and a quick-to-anger mother, and what played out on their road trip, what was shown to be a bond that was too poisoned to be positive, was in actual fact their true inheritance.

See this film, and continue the debate here!

 

Skye; The Cuillins: Sgurr na Banachdich (190)

Walk date: 13/07/08
My Munro #'s: 161

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor na banachteech - possibly smallpox peak - 965m

Statistics:
Duration - 10:00 - 17:00
Distance - 11.3 km
Total ascent - 1216m
Weather - A broken cloud/sunny start to the day with cloud-free tops but the cloud thickened and covered the tops by the time we reached them. Some wind on top. Rain in the afternoon.
Team - with the AMC club; Dennis, Steve W, Jens, Helen, and Alexander and Christine (to start with).
Other hikers: 4.

Not the best scale map for the feel of it, better was my

Harveys 1:12,500 scale, but it's not available in digital:

Much sooner than expected then, I found myself on Skye contemplating a trip up onto the infamous intimidating Cuillin Ridge. The impetus for this was an Aberdeen Mountaineering Club meet at the Glen Brittle Memorial Hut, which sits right under the said ridge of doom. These 'hills' are well known for being a cut above anything else in Scotland, being incredibly sharp and ragged, a result of their formation being as they are the rim of an extinct volcano. One advantage of this is that the ridge exhibits a rock type known as gabbro, which is similar to granite in its volcanic creation but slightly different ingredients mean that it is incredibly 'sticky' even when wet and is a delight to scramble on. This is a good job as there is much to be scrambled on.

Due to the nature of these hills then I was not up for wandering up onto them on my own and 'checking them out' but instead was waiting until perhaps next year and book some time with a guide. However, when the AMC meet came to my attention I thought that it was an ideal chance to get an early taster of this landscape while benefitting from the knowledge of some experienced types. The first benefit of this experience came on the Saturday when we awoke to find cloud on the hills down to 600m. Immediately, all but three hardcore climber members of the hills decided to not even attempt to go to the ridge. I learned that the ridge often forks and turns and this can be very deceptive in the cloud even if you have been there before. With that in mind I happily joined the rest of the meet for a lower level walk taking in Macleod's Tables, two flat-topped hills to the western end of Skye.

Fortunately, Sunday's weather was much improved and we woke to cloud-free tops. By the time breakfast was finished, the odd cloud was skirting the top of Sgurr na Banachdich, which we could see from the breakfast table, but we set off anyway. This Munro is one of the two easiest of the ridge (with Bruach na Frithe being the other), but it is still at least of the level of our recent walk up An Teallach albeit the avoiding-the-ridge version.

The route starts off easy enough with a road walk to the Youth Hostel and then a good path up alongside the beautiful Allt a' Choire Ghreadaidh. At the foot of Coire a' Ghreadaidh a path splits off toward Coir' an Eich and An Diallaid and a steep ascent starts. As the path levels off a little there is a choice to take the crest leading to An Diallaid or to rise up through its corrie. We chose the former for the promise of a scree-free path and this worked out well enough although it was steep and rocky enough. The path continues up over rocky ground leading to great views down into the corrie from An Diallaid. However, it was here that our team fragmented as Christine decided that she had seen enough steep rock for the day and Alexander took her down, this time following a line through the corrie, which apparently turned out well enough.

Now down to five, we pressed on onto the now cloud-covered Sgurr na Banachdich itself, working our way up more bare and steep rock, but still nothing that approached being a scramble. This continued onto the ridge which is comfortably wide at this point, although we could see the route north-east toward Sgurr a' Ghreadaidh and that looked like a different story. Within a few short steps we found ourselves at the summit cairn perched above what felt like a huge drop but perhaps fortunately in the cloud we couldn't see it. We then sat and had a late lunch and I felt very happy for both my first visit to the Cuillin ridge and my first Cuillin Munro.

After lunch, with the cloud showing no signs of moving on, we carried on on our planned horse-shoe route by taking in some more of the Cuillin ridge as we made our way SSE toward Bealach Coire na Banachdich. To avoid the pinnacles of the Centre Top and South Top, we dropped to the west of them as the books suggest, however I couldn't help but think that maybe we dropped a little too west after a while as the rocky way on was steeper than I imagined the said 'path' to be and before long we did run out of rocks with the characteristic sign of crampon-marks upon them. No matter as this traverse was still safe enough and I was resolutely glad to be led as at one point earlier on after the Centre Top I'd been convinced that the way forward was to stay on the line we were traveling whereas a turn to the right downwards was actually required, a fact which then became clearly evident as a brief lift in the clouds gave a view to the South Top ahead along the line of the turn. Another example of the confusion possible in the mist was the fact that even the experienced Steve and Dennis were grateful for confirmation of our position by my GPS at one point.

Eventually, we lowered to the bealach although some distance still needed to be covered before it was time to turn downwards into Coire na Banachdich (look for a cairn where a descent to the east is also possible). Unfortunately the cloud was still solid here as otherwise it would have been possible to see the Inaccessible Pinnacle and that would have been a delight but it will just have one saved for another day! The descent route was initially very rocky but was fine enough although the actual direction to take does require some specialist knowledge as otherwise the tempting straight-line down the hills is abruptly halted by some cliffs which cannot be negotiated. Instead, once around the buttress on the south side, bear south and (if you can see them) follow cairns to this left hand side of the corrie where, without too much trouble, a good way down takes you back onto normal-looking paths and the road. A brilliant day out for me and a grand introduction to these serious hills; one that definitely affirmed their nature to me but one that also affirmed my appetite for visiting them, albeit under respectful caution!

The view from the hut, Sgurr nan Gobhar (L), Sgurr na

Banachdich (C) and Window Buttress (R) above

Coire na Banachdich:

A good path up alongside Allt a' Coire Ghreadaidh:

The start of the deviation up Coir' an Eich:

Just starting up An Diallaid (C):

An Diallaid gives great views into Coire a' Ghreadaidh:

But it's a rocky climb up:

Them views down:

Cloud starting to come in onto the ridge above:

Bruach na Frithe (C) just poking over Sgurr Eadar da Choire:

Getting ready for the rise to some Sgurr na Banachdich action:

Steve and Dennis contemplate the route ahead:

An example of why you need to chose the right route up:

Heading into the cloud but the going was still good:

Hitting the ridge proper:

The summit! A Cuillin Munro!

Feeling good, time to rest on the narrow summit crest:

Onwards as the ridge starts to thin:

Getting off the crest to pass Centre Top and

South Top just to the west:

South Top looking good through the mist:

Dennis and Jens traversing through the mist:

Pinnacles aplenty round here:

The route off east from Bealach Coire na Banachdich!

Into Coire na Banachdich, scree and rough rock action!

Braver elements having a good look ahead:

Good progress is made as we descend below the cloud:

Safely down low, smiles all round:

However, the route still offers some surprises!

Window buttress up close, not recommended:

And finally, Glen Brittle bay appears like an old friend:

Ullapool round-up

And so another year's hiking week has come and gone.  It was great this year to have Paul P back and together we visited some wonderful hills.  I especially enjoyed Ruadh Stac Mor and A' Mhaighdean for their remoteness and the challenge of that day, Slioch for the grand views and An Teallach just to have experienced such a well known hill, and it was even better that Sonia made it for that one too.  For a final comment for now, check out this video compilation above. Talk soon, George.

The Dundonnell and Fisherfield Hills: An Teallach (Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill (72) and Sgurr Fiona (73))

Walk date: 21/06/08
My Munro #'s: 159 and 160

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
An tyalach - the forge

Beetyan a ghas-hool - peak of the greenish-grey hollow - 1062m

Skoor fee-ana - peak of wine - 1060m

Statistics:
Duration - 10:45 - 17:00
Distance - 14.8 km
Total ascent - 1300m
Weather - Sunny through broken cloud. Some light wind on top but a very pleasant day.

Team - with Paul and Sónia.
Other hikers: many on top.

It is possible to avoid the ridge if you're not up for huge drops:

Paul P and George Ullapool Hills 2008 - Day 8 (Sat)

I had been looking forward to this day with a certain nervous excitement for a fair while now as An Teallach is widely regarded as one of the classic hills of Scotland, because, as with other classics, this generally means they have a big slice of trouble associated with them. Mainly with An Teallach this is because of the south eastern ridge which we had been eyeing up all week and which consists of an amazing series of sharp pinnacles that from ground height seem completely impossible. Given my Aonach Eagach experience I wasn't up for that and the same went for Paul along with Sonia who was joining us for the weekend.

Thus, I came up with a plan to go linear from Dundonnell House into Glas Tholl, to visit the two Munros and go out the same way and this worked as well as it could on this monster of a hill. Due to starting east of the river instead of west we soon had a crossing to do but it surely would have been a bad thing to have Sonia miss out on that aspect of the week!

The walking was straightforward into Glas Tholl and it was only at the end that matters changed. The path continued well, but the inclined increased significantly. The only moment that required consideration came with the last few metres to the col as the path changed to a scrambly loose stone slope but it was over soon enough.

Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill is fairly steep from here on but the path is easy and it just requires the effort being applied before the summit and the amazing views that come with it are reached together. This is actually the better peak for views of the ridge as we later found that Sgurr Fiona offers head-on views which hide a little the true nature of this razor-sharp series of pinnacles.

The path continues on to this second peak and it can be done without any technical ability although it does require a head for heights as the drop-offs are still quite severe. In time however even this sharper peak is reached and as we perched ourselves on the limited flat space available it felt magnificent especially given the absolutely perfect weather we were being blessed with. We sat there for as long as we could watching people make their seemingly impossible progress along the ridge, wonderful stuff.

As time was moving on we pressed forward, taking an easier route west toward Sgurr Creag an Eich and then traversing along to the col again below Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill. From there on it was the same route back with the scree slope at the top of Glas Tholl only slowing us down slightly leading to a triumphant and easy stroll back down to the car and the end of a fantastic week of walking.

An Teallach making its first appearance of the day:

The route starts alongside a fine tumble of a river:

Wild goats on the slopes toward Glas Tholl:

Heading into the fine corrie of Glas Tholl:

The northern side of Glas Mheall Liath overhead:

And the route onward sharply upward to the col just north

of Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill:

Glas Tholl corrie in motion:

The steep route out:

Ending even steeper but safely enough:

First views of the ridge up at height:

And deep views down to Loch Toll an Lochain:

Grand views all round:

Getting ready for the last steps onto Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill:

Trig point on the narrow-enough top of Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill:

The less-than-convincing route to Glas Mheall Liath:

The gang together, nice place for a sit-down on

Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill:

Target 2, the sharper peak of Sgurr Fiona:

Interesting rock action at the foot of Sgurr Fiona:

Here it comes:

Do we really want to do this? Go team!!

Looking back to Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill as we rise:

A grateful Sonia makes it to the top of Sgurr Fiona:

The full view from the sharp peak of Sgurr Fiona:

The ridge head-on. Fancy it?

A long way down to Loch Toll an Lochain:

And good views west to Loch na Sealga:

Oh, as well as south to our old friend Gleann na Muice:

The coast looking good:

Sgurr Creag an Eich from Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill:

Sgurr Fiona (L) and Sgurr Creag an Eich (R):

Back down, leaving Glas Tholl:

Dundonnell in the evening sun making the return all the better:

And finally some panorama action:

The Fannaichs and Ullapool Hills: Beinn Laith Mhor Fannaich (209), Sgurr Mor (43), Meall Gorm (215) and An Coileachan (266)

Walk date: 20/06/08
My Munro #'s: 155, 156, 157 and 158

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Byn leea voar fannich - big grey hill of the Fannich - 954m

Skoor more - big peak - 1110m

Myowl gorram - blue hill - 949m

An kilyachan - the little cock - 923m

Statistics:
Duration - 09:45 - 18:45
Distance - 28.9 km
Total ascent - 1795m
Weather - Cloudy with periods of strong winds on top. Periods of heavy rain and two bursts of strong stinging hail but with even dry time between showers to keep you happy.
Team - solo.
Other hikers: 2.

Although not advertised, the northern approach is fine:

Paul P and George Ullapool Hills 2008 - Day 7 (Fri)

After the previous day's epic, and with the prospect of a 4-Munro day ahead, Paul decided to play a cautious hand on this day and stay in Ullapool to rest his knee and ankles. Thus, I set out from an exposed car park on the A835 and started looking for the path up alongside Allt a' Mhadaidh. My book had actually recommended a start from Loch Fannaich which would have required a 8km bike ride up a private road but after the day on Meall a' Chrasgaidh/Sgurr nan Clach Geala/Sgurr nan Each I had eyed this alternative route in from the north and in any case favoured any route now that didn't include the use of a bike!

Predictably I was immediately faced with a river crossing, this time of the shallow but slimy variety. This crossing led to another river but remarkably one with a bridge attached. After crossing this one the path was good and obvious and rose to meet a hydro power station track which had come up from the end of Loch Droma.

I stayed on this track until its end where a path then continues in the same line and presents yet another river crossing, this time with a comedy cairn on the far side. Without too much trouble I got across but soon had to leave the path as it was clearly continuing straight to Loch a' Mhadaidh while I needed to make a break for the slopes of Beinn Laith Mhor Fannaich. Once on its slopes the familiar slow rise on rough and rocky ground began but was rewarded with grand views below.

Once on top the wind immediately made its presence known and made normal walking difficult. After touching the summit I quickly dropped SW to the col for some protection and set myself up for more with some refreshments. It was fortunately I had taken that opportunity as within minutes a strong hailstorm came in from behind Sgurr Mor and made things truly unpleasant, even turning my thoughts to a retreat once I'd taken in this second hill.

This was a day of changeable weather however, and as soon as I started climbing on Sgurr Mor the sun came out again making for a very enjoyable visit to this tall peak being an excellent vantage point to its fine neighbouring hills.

From Sgurr Mor easy walking takes you to the shallow crest of Meall Gorm and then down and up onto the back of An Coilleachan, which offers superb views of Loch Fannaich and the rest of the ridge down to it. This would be a fine route onto these hills but for me it was a slope too far and after taking in the grandeur of the location I set about re-tracing my many steps back. A great set of hills that offers a fairly easy day out once the work of the initial ascent has been done.

Well, may as well start the day with a river crossing hey?

But only one to start with as some nutter has built a bridge!

A subtle cairn marks the branch between the Hydro road and the path:

You know you're going to have to cross this Allt a' Mhadaidh:

No betting on a path up onto Beinn Laith Mhor Fannaich:

Views north from the grassy back of Beinn Laith Mhor Fannaich:

Loch a' Mhadaidh just making an appearance to the NW:

The onward route to tall fella Sgurr Mor:

Looking back to Beinn Laith Mhor Fannaich:

Now that's what I call a shelter!

Serious drops off Sgurr Mor:

And then some:

A fine cairn for the fine hill of Sgurr Mor:

Over to Sgurr nan Clach Geala and Sgurr nan Each:

Down to Beinn Laith Mhor Fannaich:

And the onward route south with Loch Li and Loch Fannaich in view:

Looking back to Sgurr Mor:

Loch an Fhuar Thuill Mhoir and Loch Li:

Onward to Meall Gorm:

And finally to An Coilleachan:

A good cairn marks the day's furthest point:

Looking all the way back north:

Tempting lush slopes continue on down to Loch Fannaich:

The remote western end of Loch Fannaich:

With Slioch just visible in the distance:

And now with the full panorama:

A tombstone on An Coilleachan reminds us of potential dangers:

An example of some fine Scottish weather as I returned to Sgurr Mor!

Snow and cloud close the day:

A helpful summit-avoiding path on Beinn

Laith Mhor Fannaich:

Another grand Ullapool evening:

The Dundonnell and Fisherfield Hills: Beinn a' Chlaidheimh (280) BUT NOT Sgurr Ban (157), Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair (115) or Beinn Tarsuinn (238)

Walk date: 19/06/08
My Munro #'s: 154

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Byn a' shleev - hill of the sword - 916m

Statistics:
Duration - 10:00 - 20:00
Distance - 38.3 km
Total ascent - 1310m
Weather - Oh good god it was wet.
Team - with Paul.
Other hikers: 0 (no one else was up for this much punishment).

Not for bikes, the northern shore of Loch a' Bhraoin:

Paul P and George Ullapool Hills 2008 - Day 6 (Thurs)

Knowing that this central group of four Fisherfield hills was a big day out and that we were running out of time to take them in, I pushed us to go for them after our two lighter days. Unfortunately this turned out to be the worst day for weather of the whole week, with more rain than you could shake a stick at. And we tried.

This was also the only day of the week when we tried to use the bikes, and this was because of an attractive looking track along the north shore of Loch a' Bhraoin that we had seen from Druim Reidh on the previous day. However, up close this was not as advertised. The track was muddy, rocky, extremely undulating and peppered with stretches of pebbles which immediately took away any speed that you'd worked for and was impossible to cycle through. In all we made 6.6km in an hour which was only marginally faster than walking but which required a lot more effort.

Parking the bikes up just beyond Lochivraon cottage which was in the process of renovation for some true hermit, we made good progress on the remainder of the track. This dropped a little and became a path through some grassland complete with bemused cattle. The first river crossing of the day presented itself here but gave no cause for concern at this time and we continued on eventually rounding the corner of Creag Ruigh a Bhraghad.

Here, our first decision needed to be made as the wide river of Allt Cul Doireachan blocked our access to the four mighty hills ahead. I had planned to follow the river upstream and look for crossing points as the river thinned out, but that was rough ground walking, which is extremely tiring and for Paul, who was having both knee and ankle problems definitely not a kind option. Instead then we kept on the good path which followed the river downstream past Loch an Nid and then along Abhainn Loch an Nid as its outflow became and looked continuously for kind crossing options.

As the hills passed to our left just beyond the river, we kept walking and looking for some 4km, but nothing was happening as the river continued to grow. As were approaching Achneigie it became obvious that matters were only going to get worse. In sympathy at my wish to visit these hills, Paul offered to go for a full on wet crossing, but I didn't fancy the crossing point we were discussing as the riverbed seemed quite uneven there. Despite time ticking on, I still thought it was possible to return to the corner under Creag Ruigh a Bhraghad and head for Bealch na Croise again and this was the plan that we then started out for. However, as we were approaching Loch an Nid again, with Paul's wet crossing plan in mind I spotted a decent crossing opportunity, albeit a damp one. At the level the water was then at it actually wasn't that bad, although Paul did stop to wring out his socks!

Finally across, we then began a rough ascent over bog and water-soaked grass which led to some nice rock outcrops which were easy to cross as long as you avoided the parts which had become brand new streams. The ascent levelled out at 650m with Am Briseadh and we then aimed for the northern peak of this ridge, Beinn a' Chlaidheimh, already steeped in cloud.

Unfortunately, the wet weather that had plagued us low-down was something else entirely up at this height and as we made our way along the ridge we were battered by strong wind and lashing rain. I turned and confirmed with Paul that we would complete this hill and then make it home as direct as possible as this day truly did belong to the elements! The final rise to the summit continued in the same vein and despite temptations to stay and have a picnic, there was only time for a handshake of mutual respect before getting off this sodden peak.

Although losing some height meant that the wind was calmer it was certainly not the end of our problems, as returning to the river, the non-stop rainfall meant that it had changed its character quite extremely, with at least a doubling in its depth and speed. If it had been this way on the way to the hills I know we would not have crossed it, but given that it was now the way home, we were definitely going to cross as soon as we had found a safe spot. Our outward bound crossing was no longer practical, but we found a fairly deep but flat-bedded point a little way upstream and just went for it (see the helpful video below).

Now definitely soaked but grateful to be on the way home we made our tired way along the path which was doubling up as an impressive river in its own right. Progress was fine until approaching Lochivraon cottage we remembered the first river crossing of the day needed to be repeated and what had been an easy dry crossing was now a raging torrent. The crossing point before was now a dangerous gush of brown water. We did find an alternative that was safe but by no means dry, but by now we had accepted this as the order of the day.

Shortly afterward then we were reunited with our bikes and so began an exhausting end to an already tiring day. The bikes were helpful however as the multitude of small fords we had crossed on the lochside track were now wide torrents themselves and cycling through them was at least a quick if not completely dry option. A true epic mountain day that I felt we did very well to make work as well as it did, but, man, that hot shower afterward felt great!

A gloomy Loch a' Bhraoin in the morning:

The only other people we saw all day were in JCBs!

The last people who tried to live out here:

SW toward Bealach na Croise:

A wet, wet path already:

A grand land despite its abundance of water:

Looking north toward Loch an Nid:

Looking back south having passed the loch:

Finally climbing, over, guess what, wet ground:

Oh, and wet rock:

At least it cleared up at the summit of Beinn a' Chlaidheimh:

Can you believe there are some people who don't do this?

A video somehow captures the moment better:

A rather altered Abhainn Loch an Nid on the return crossing:

Farewell for now you lost hills:

The Fannaichs and Ullapool Hills: Sgurr Breac (138) and A' Chailleach (144)

Walk date: 18/06/08
My Munro #'s: 152 and 153

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor brechk - speckled peak - 999m

A chalyach - the old woman - 997m

Statistics:
Duration - 10:00 - 16:30
Distance - 19 km
Total ascent - 1180m
Weather - Cloudy and very windy at altitude early in the day. Wet for a while but with a sunny finish.

Team - with Paul.

Other hikers: 1.

Completing the circuit:

Paul P and George Ullapool Hills 2008 - Day 5 (Weds)

The second of our 'recovery days' saw us returning to the previous day's glen and taking in the rest of the grand circuit. Knowing the ascent well, we travelled up the glen without incident, with myself adding some more to Gibb's Bridge and Paul refusing its offering again!

After refreshments at the col in a fine shelter, we rose steadily up the back of Sgurr Breac and onto its broad summit crest despite some impressive gusts of wind slowing us down. After the summit we kept with the good but faded in places path onto Toman Coinnich and then up A' Chailleach, which in nice weather must be a gorgeous hill but one we experience in heavy rain and continued wind. By the time we were back at Toman Coinnich it was of course sunny again, and this gave some great weather effects as the cloud slowly dissipated.

For a descent, we went north with good walking down Druim Reidh (a path also appeared to go down this having originated from Bealach Toll an Leachall, but we had missed its start in the poor weather). The path also remained good down Sron na Leitir Fhearna which we were very grateful for as it seemed imposingly steep from below it. A straightforward stomp to the car then followed and without any more 'manual' river crossings!

An old friend, revisiting Gibb's Bridge:

Gaining height in the return to the col:

Let's do it, the back of Sgurr Breac:

Paul demonstrates just how windy it was getting:

I can see the car from here, and the east end of Loch a' Bhraoin:

A small mound of a cairn survives on Sgurr Breac.

Loch Fannaich behind:

And in motion:

From Toman Coinnich onward to A' Chailleach:

Looking back to Sgurr Breac:

Loch Toll an Lochain from the approach to A' Chailleach:

A happy man and his A' Chailleach cairn:

Cloud burn-off back at Toman Coinnich:

Ditto:

And with a Paul to boot:

Good walking down the back of Druim Reidh:

These lower slopes still provided good views:

A' Chailleach and Paul:

Loch a' Bhraoin looking good:

As Druim Reidh runs out, some quick descent is required:

The Fannaichs and Ullapool Hills: Meall a' Chrasgaidh (243), Sgurr nan Clach Geala (53) and Sgurr nan Each (267)

Walk date: 17/06/08
My Munro #'s: 149, 150 and 151

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Myowl a chras-kee - hill of the crossing - 934m

Skoor nan klach gee-ala - peak of the white stones - 1093m
Skoor nan yaach - peak of the horses - 923m

Statistics:
Duration - 11:00 - 18:45
Distance - 19.8 km
Total ascent - 1179m
Weather - Relatively low wind, some rain but not much. Low cloud on Sgurr nan Each.
Team - with Paul.
Other hikers: 1 (not chatty).

Hills close to the road? Outrageous!

Paul P and George Ullapool Hills 2008 - Day 4 (Tues)

After our big day out, we needed take our stomping feet off the throttle a little and so we opted to split a planned 5-Munro outing into two walks, in doing so actually going as low as doing what the books suggested!

Starting from 163760 on the A832 a good track turned into a good path but one which inevitably led to another bridgeless river with a 'comedy-cairn' at its far side indicating that the route on required some wet feet. Even with the level relatively low, that point of the river was not tempting, but a short distance upstream there were some more interesting options. At a just-not-quite-manageable crossing I set about building 'Gibb's Bridge' with childhood relish. Paul wasn't convinced and found a dry crossing further up, but I persisted and managed to create an 'exciting crossing experience'.

Once over we headed up the glen's path before branching off upwards on a Landrover track. This however soon faded out and we knew that the time for some more 'freestyle ascent' had come. The usual digging-in and slow rise on grass slopes ensued and brought us gradually up onto the broad rocky back of Meall a' Chrasgaidh which gave fine views to the many neighbouring hills.

After a snack, the wind chill was enough to push us on and despite the temptations of easy walking to Sgurr Mor and Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich we kept to our original plan and moved onward to today's highpoint of Sgurr nan Clach Geala. Here the wind was quite strong but the views down Coire Mor toward Loch Fannaich more than made up for it.

A good path continued on to Sgurr nan Each and it was here that the cloud descended. Due to this we didn't hang about, first returning to Cadha na Guite and then dropping west to the col. This descent soon became a pathless grass, bog, rock and wet and slow route, but it wasn't by any means horrendous and there seemed nothing better on offer.

Once at the col the path down the glen was obvious and offered a quick return albeit one including the river crossing again.

Having seen the route on up from the col to Sgurr Breac which would lead to A' Chailleach I can say that adding this pair to this day (which was the original 5-Munro plan) would indeed be possible, but it would be a fair bit more effort and definitely not classifiable as a rest day!

Is that a mirage? A bridge?? The eastern end of

Loch a' Bhraoin with Leitir Fhearna behind:

Now, could this still be a river to cross? Allt Breabaig getting a move on:

Running out of path on Meall a' Chrasgaidh:

Meall a' Chrasgaidh's rocky top with Sgurr nan Clach Geala behind:

A Paul head just visible above the cosy parapet:

Loch a' Mhadaidh and Coir a' Mhadaidh to the ENE:

A hill for another day, tall guy Sgurr Mor:

Today's trip, on to Sgurr nan Clach Geala:

Getting windy on the tops:

A helpful shelter at the col:

Fine views to the back of Sgurr Mor:

Coming up on Sgurr nan Clach Geala, and it's spiky crags:

Down into Coire Mor:

The full craggy eastern side of Sgurr nan Clach Geala:

Down into Coire Mor with Loch Fannaich at its end:

The full Paul, Sgurr nan Clach Geala, Coire Mor and Sgurr Mor panorama:

Summit views:

More summit action:

Onto Sgurr nan Each, dwarfed by Sgurr nan Clach Geala:

From the south side, Sgurr nan Clach Geala:

Hill 3 of the day, who wants to go home now?

"I had a coat, and it was all Yellow..."

Best shelter so far at the col between Sgurr nan Each and Sgurr Breac:

A comedy-cairn makes the route of the path straight through the river!

A welcomed sight, the car of no-more-walking! (An Teallach behind):

The Dundonnell and Fisherfield Hills: Ruadh Stac Mor (276) and A' Mhaighdean (187)

Walk date: 16/06/08
My Munro #'s: 147 and 148

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Roo-a stak more - big red peak - 918m

Ah-vatyin - the maiden - 967m

Statistics:
Duration - 09:00 - 20:45
Distance - 43.1 km
Total ascent - 1942m
Weather - Broken cloud with some good sun for first half of day, but this changed to rain/heavy cloud at Ruadh Stac Mor. Still got views from both summits but remainder of day was very wet.
Team - with Paul.
Other hikers: 1 at the start who was actually off to do An Teallach, 3 soon after who had stayed overnight in Shenavail bothy, and then 3 from afar from Ruadh Stac Mor.

Oh, it is a very long way:

Paul P and George Ullapool Hills 2008 - Day 3 (Mon)

We justifiably referred to this day out as 'the big one'. No matter your approach to this remote pair of hills, you're looking at in excess of 40km. There are various possibilities with Poolewe and a 4km cycleable start being one of them, but my mapping software had given this Dundonnell House start as being a mere 35km day. It was a fine example of the underestimates that are possible in the digital world; the hills are a lot simpler when flat on your home computer screen! Although in actual fact it made little difference and this proved to be a fine route in.

Starting at 9am, we set off on a steady pace up a good forestry track. Back home, I had wondered if this track was cycleable but it would require a good bike and good cycling legs to match as the incline is not to be sniffed at and the ground quite rocky. It would be fun on the way down however!

As the forest ends the path levels out briefly where a small bridge is crossed, but it soon rises once more until the 400m plateau of Dundonnell Forest is reached. A cairn marks the branch off the main track toward Shenavail (we actually missed this due to some fellow hikers sat around the cairn only noticing it on our return leg!). The route on is now a path not a track and is definitely not for bikes, no doubt being quite muddy in wet weather. Unfairly, all the height thus far gained has to be dropped again as this path descends right down to 100m at Shenavail.

Once down in the secluded glen the problem of river crossings first rears its ugly head as Abhainn Strath na Sealga needs to be crossed. This is a problem that we were to find out is common in this area. So remote is Fisherfield and the surrounding hills that no one has ever been troubled to build any bridges, and in wet conditions there could be nothing for it but to abandon your walk altogether. Fortunately, a loose piece of earthy riverbank had become lodged on the near shore just downstream of Shenavail and we used this as a jumping platform to get across. As we used it we did wonder how long it would last and given the heavy rain that we experienced later in the week I doubt it is there even by now.

A stomp across flat grassland then brought us to opposite the private cottage of Larachantivore and the base of Gleann na Muice with its new river problem in the shape of Allt Gleann na Muice Beag. Not feeling like immediately tackling it we followed a decent path upstream on the eastern shore, which is not drawn on the OS maps. We took quite some time to find a happy spot to jump across but it was fine enough walking as we did with good views of Beinn a' Chlaidheimh and its neighbours to the left and up ahead.

Once across at the base of Allt Gleann na Muice Beag we kept walking up the glen until the path ran out at its head. My plan had been to take almost a westerly approach onto Ruadh Stac Mor, but after seeing nothing approaching a path we resisted so long that a sharp turn up onto steep grass and rock slopes was required to keep on track (although continuing on up Allt Poll Eadar dha Stac could have been an option especially if switching to take in A' Mhaighdean first).

The ascent was slow and tiring but eventually it saw us at the top of definite 'difficult hill' Ruadh Stac Mor with some good views including An Teallach to the NE and Fuar Loch Mor to the W. I believe we hit this at 14:30 some five and a half hours after setting out. With the weather hinting at a wet turn of events, we pressed on making careful progress down a steep and now slippery boulder field, at the base of which was what Paul described as a 'mud-chute', being the last stretch of the 'path' down to the col.

Fortunately, A' Mhaighdean offered few surprises as far as the route was concerned and we were rewarded with some grand and atmospheric rainy views including down to Lochan Fada, over to Slioch and the long desolate route to Poolewe and the coast. A few moments later and the cloud had come in to claim them all. To be there in fine weather would be amazing but to have got anything on the isolated peak after all the effort was wonderful enough.

Not feeling like rough-grounding it back into Gleann na Muice, we then took the good path to Lochan Feith Mhic'-illean and turned to Allt Gleann na Muice Beag (including another river crossing, deep and with no alternative this time). I would recommend this as an ascent route as despite the extra distance the ground is covered quick.

Once down in Gleann na Muice we just retraced our steps with the last energy in our legs being sorely tested on the rise back up the slopes beyond Shenavail, but grim determination saw us back at the car only 11 and 3/4 hours after setting out, fantastic stuff and a very memorable day!

The start of a long, long road, near Dundonnell House:

Just after the start of the long, long road, rising up Dundonnell Forest:

An Teallach looking good as we round Sail Liath:

Isolated Loch na Sealga looking good at the back of An Teallach:

Shenavail bothy looked like it could make a cosy night's stay:

Beinn a' Chlaidheimh and the start of Gleann na Muice:

Oh-oh, another river to cross in Gleann na Muice:

Paul showing how it's done:

My wrong-hill pointing 1, this one to Beinn Tarsuinn:

Someone had got an earlier start than us:

Running out of path at the head of Gleann na Muice:

Wrong-hill pointing 2, although this is actually the

far-back of A' Mhaighdean:

Good views of Beinn Tarsuinn as we gain height on the

back of Ruadh Stac Mor:

Taking a break from the hard work:

It's the right hill! Finally approaching Ruadh Stac Mor:

Superb views from Ruadh Stac Mor NE toward An Teallach:

A harsh boulder route to the col between today's stars:

Looking back up as Paul negotiates the boulders:

Some impressive rocks on Ruadh Stac Mor down at the col:

Looking on to easier progress up A' Mhaighdean:

Looking back to the weighty Ruadh Stac Mor:

Feeling good on arguably the most remote Munro:

A long way down, from the edge to Lochan Fada

Dubh Loch and Fionn Loch toward Poolewe:

The full panorama from A' Mhaighdean:

Impressive crags on A' Mhaighdean:

As we descended toward Fuar Loch Mor, the clouds closed in above:

An impressive size for its height, Fuar Loch Mor:

At our furthest point, the insult of another river crossing at Lochan Feith Mhic'-illean:

He's wet now, Paul makes a damage-assessment:

A long way down Gleann na Muice Beag back to Gleann

na Muice, but thankfully on a great path:

The Dundonnell and Fisherfield Hills: Slioch (170)

Walk date: 15/06/08
My Munro #'s: 146

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Slee-och - a spear - 981m

Statistics:
Duration - 10:45 - 17:00
Distance - 19.4 km
Total ascent - 1350m
Weather - Cloudy but with a lot of sunshine getting through. Cold wind for a time on top.
Team - with Paul.
Other hikers: about 6.

A long walk-in, but worth it when you get there:

Paul P and George Ullapool Hills 2008 - Day 2 (Sun)

Having both welcomed Paul to the Highlands and fired myself up on a caramel macchiato at Inverness Airport, we ventured quite some way in the car along the A832 to this outpost of hill action for the week, the mighty, imposing, Slioch. I had seen this hill many times when I had had my Torridon week back in 2006 and I was quite excited to be finally making out for it.

After parking at Incheril, which is just a short track away from Kinlochewe, we started along the unavoidable but pleasant enough 4km of walk-in until Abhainn an Fhasaigh is met in the impressively deep gorge of Gleann Bianasdail with the serious cliffs of Beinn a' Mhuinidh overhead. At the far side of the bridge the path splits immediately after the crossing. Take the harder to see right (north) branch for Slioch. We actually started out on the more obvious NW path on my reasoning only to be forced to cross some bog and heather to get literally back on track.

The path, once you're on it, rises well and progress is good with fine views opening up below to the head of Loch Maree. Before long, the incline flattens out and you're into the secret corrie of Coire na Sleaghaich. Paul and I actually decided that Slioch's top resembled a Yorkshire pudding (with one bite taken out) as from each of the other sides it looks solid without a hint of this corrie within it. Do not be tempted to climb any of the steep inner sides straight away but instead stay with the path for a while as it eventually switches back on itself to climb onto the SE ridge just to the east of the eastern lochan.

Once on the ridge the lofty path continues steeply but safely to the summit plateau where a short stroll takes you to the actual summit point which in clear weather provides a hard to beat view with serious drops down to Loch Maree and commanding views over to the isolated region of Fisherfield. As we sat there, we eyed the remote peaks of Ruadh Stac Mor and A' Mhaighdean enviously and came up with a plan to set out for them the next day whilst we still had sufficient hunger for the seriously long trek it would entail.

Anyhow, with a chill setting in we couldn't sit there forever and so we pressed on along the sharp but easy to walk ridge of Sgurr an Tuill Bhain. Onwards we made our way down a path that disappeared amongst rocks leaving us to ponder the best return route to the corrie. Of course I was immediately attempted to go direct which predictably led to a steep and slow route over heather and rock. A better plan would have been to carry on SE and come down much gentler slopes before crossing the corrie to the main path again, but taking our time, our route worked out fine.

Back at the car, I took us to Ullapool along the impressive coastal route fully savouring this grand grand landscape and becoming eager for more of it, although maybe after a few beers!

A long but pleasant walk-in along side the Kinlochewe river:

First sight of our mighty target, the imposing Slioch:

The very, very impressive cliffs of Beinn a' Mhuinidh:

The good path meant height was gained quick over Loch Maree:

A nice spot for a stroll:

The view getting better:

Into the high corrie Coire na Sleaghaich:

Getting steep, the path climbs a corrie wall:

Here comes the summit, onto the top of Slioch:

Back (SSE) toward Kinlochewe:

WNW showing a more 'tricky' side to Slioch:

Paul modeling the impressive views:

Get some raw cairn action:

Nice spot for lunch:

Loch Maree looking good:

And then some, NW toward the coast:

Loch Garbhaig and deep into Fisherfield:

Loch Garbhaig, Lochan Fada and far Munros

A' Mhaighdean and Ruadh Stac Mor:

The full panorama of that summit view:

Taking the northern descent to Sgurr an Thuill Bhain:

Nice elevated view back to Slioch:

Sorry I couldn't stop taking pictures of Fisherfield:

The southern end of Lochan Fada was pretty good too:

A few choices of descent back into the corrie, but keep patient!

A nice evening back in Ullapool to return to:

The Fannaichs and Ullapool Hills: Ben Wyvis [Glas Leathad Mor] (85)

Walk date: 14/06/08
My Munro #'s: 145

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Byn wivis; glas lehat moar - hill of terror/big greenish slope - 1046m

Statistics:
Duration - 13:15 - 19:00
Distance - 17.8 km
Total ascent - 1015m
Weather - Scattered showers, sometimes heavy. Surprisingly windy on top. Cloud covered summit.
Team - solo (kind of).
Other hikers: 5.

Despite temptations to re-trace my steps, I kept with the full circular route: