The Mamlorn Hills: Beinn Heasgarnich (62) and Creag Mhor (84)

Walk date: 13/4/13

My Munro #'s: 235 and 236

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Byn heskarneech - peak of the roaring waterfall of the horses - 1078m
Craig vore - big rock - 1047m


Statistics:
Duration - 09:30 - 19:00

Distance -  21.9km

Total ascent -  2196m 

Weather - low cloud for first half of day and feisty winds around first summit, but cleared up for 2nd hill with cloud above hills and low wind

Team - with Paul P

Other hikers: 4

In so much snow, the optional Ben Callum was soon forgotten!

Day 1 - Saturday

And so, the days of the annual hiking fest were with us!  Shaking the dust off the gear and remembering how to plot routes and navigate, we got ourselves into some sort of shape (organisation-wise and most definitely not fitness-wise!), and holed up at Crianlarich, ready to start things off with some Mamlorn Hills.  Our original plan for the first day had been finishing off the Alder group, complete with a night in Culra bothy beforehand, but with such a late winter we had had many last minute revisions of plans, scaling ambitions back, and very wise that was too!

With the day starting dull, we trekked from the car park up into cloud fairly quickly.  The cloud provided an ominous veil, allowing our fears of just how snow clad the hill would be to amplify significantly.  Sure enough, we were met by some large patches as low as 500m, not even halfway up the hill!  Things weren't helped either by the fact our plotted route came up on a deer fence, and in the fog we had no choice but to scale it, good job this was the first day and we were relatively fresh!

The going after that was fairly steep on frozen grassy slopes, which gradually gave way to full on snowy slopes.  After 700m the incline lessened, and we enjoyed a pleasant stroll in almost pure white conditions, with at that time no wind to speak of.

This finished all too soon and the steep rise for the summit began, but fortunately here we met some trustworthy footprints which simplified the navigation somewhat (although checks were still made!), and reassured that in the very least others were just as mad as us.  The fact they came in from the east though suggested that that was probably a better approach and would have certainly avoided the deer fence!

Towards the top the wind started to pick up and the last stretch despite the softer incline was quite fierce as we weaved between some amazing wind sculptured ice and snow formations (but no so amazing that I was moved to stop in the cold and start taking pictures!).

Moving quickly on from the summit we walked along the south ridge in absolutely pure white conditions; cloud and total snow cover conspiring to remove any hope of depth perception and we moved very carefully indeed.  At Stob an Fhir-Bhoghe, we had to descend but had no visible line at all, and in high cold winds we paced back and forth trying to make out any helpful markers but to no avail.  Eventually we started down what appearted to be the most gentle slope but even that led to a whole lot of slipping and sliding, descending was proving much harder on this white stuff!

Finally, we got low enough that we dipped below the cloud and breathed a collective sigh of relief.  We had come down much more towards the home glen than the route onward, and with the continuing descent taking considerable time, we seriously contemplated dropping Creag Mhor from the day's billing.  However, a sturdy lunch in sight of this hill combined with greatly improving conditions tipped the balance and as the afternoon pushed on, we made our slow way to the bealach between these two hills.

From the bealach Creag Mhor was seriously steep, and the northern slope was distinctively icy in patches that we concentrated on avoiding!  By this point we were very tired, and it was a case of a half dozen steps followed by a serious groan, and then repeating!  In this manner we finally made it to the summit, and looked back at Beinn Heasgarnich, studying the slopes that had caused us such bother earlier in the day.

Fortunately, the slopes off Creag Mhor were much kindly, with the long SE ridge providing a quick descent, although it did toward the end veer east on grassy slopes that were incredible slippy due to the frozen ground.

Once down on the road we crushingly still had an hour of stomping to do, but the wind was down and the conditions were dry so it was strangely enjoyable to pace it out, just a shame about the three hour drive after that!  The pint of Stag was truly well deserved when we finally did arrive at The Struy Inn!!

Paul's big hat is on; it must be serious!

Follow those foot prints, they look knowledgeable:

A view!!!

Creag Mhor, second target of the day:

And it has a nice SE ridge to walk down:

Looking across Glen Lochay to the SE:

The abandoned hill, Ben Callum:

The Struay Inn which greeted us that night after a 3 hour drive!!

The second room where our amazing breakfast was served!

Knoydart and Loch Quoich: Spidean Mialach (146) and Gleouraich (97)

Walk date: 05/05/12

My Munro #'s: 233 and 234

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Speet yan meealach - peak of wild animals - 996m
Glyawreech - uproar or noise - 1035m

Statistics:
Duration - 10:45 - 15:20

Distance - 12.5 km
Total ascent - 1097 m
Weather - a mixed bag with some strong winds but generally fine
Team - with Paul P

Other hikers: 5

Day 7 - Saturday

Paul P and George 'Daddy Team' Hiking Trip 2012

And so as they say, all good things must come to an end, and thank goodness for that said our legs on this day, as we hit the 16th and 17th hills of the week.  Having said that, we were surprisingly spritely following the hot tub, comfy beds, and strong coffee of the Glen Albyn Lodge.

A good clear path leads up from the car park, and only becomes a little thin as it flattens out in a grassy valley.  Once past that it's rock all the way on a constant gradient until the summit of Spidean Mialach is reached, giving more fine views along Loch Quoich.

The bealach between these hills is quite high and progress is fast, with a good path and some light scrambling.  Before long we were on the high and long crest of our final hill Gleouraich taking in splendid views but being buffeted by strong winds.  

With the strong wind a light snack was all we stopped for, and we made our way down on another good path, which comes out at the car park just a couple of minutes away from the path up.  An excellent little hike, especially because it takes in two nice hills in a short blast, quite a contrast from our Alder day!  Just the drive back to Aberdeen to deal with afterwards....

Loch Quoich looking good again:

Paul on Spidean Mialach: 

Coming up on Gleouraich:

The bealach between them:

Myself on Gleouraich:

Knoydart and Loch Quoich: Sgurr a' Mhaoraich (104) and then Gairich (272)

Walk date: 04/05/12

My Munro #'s: 231 and 232

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Skoor a vooreach - peak of the shellfish - 1027m
Gaareech - roaring - 919m

Statistics:
Duration - 09:45 - 13:35, and 14:05 - 18:20

Distance - 11.9 km, and 15.8 km
Total ascent - 975 m and 762 m
Weather - Windy with a good blast of wintry showers, but generally enjoyable
Team - with Paul P
Other hikers: 3 on Gairich

Day 6 - Friday

Paul P and George 'Daddy Team' Hiking Trip 2012

And so for another change of location on this hiking week, this time moving from Newtonmore over to Loch Quoich and a final night away in Invergarry.  The four hills of Loch Quoich are generally taken over two days, the second is a standard circular walk of two hills, but the first, and what we did  on this day, is a less conventional coupling of two separate shorter hikes of a single hill each.  Paul and I had an official plan to not do the second hill, and leave it to another year but, despite our fatigue, we just couldn't leave it sitting there...

Sgurr a' Mhaoraich is a decent hill and the path is straightforward.  The initial climb up onto the eastern ridge gives improving views over Loch Quoich and along Glen Quoich, and then leading to a rocky summit with Allt Coire a' Chaorainn stretched out below.  It was on the crest leading to the summit that we got a blast of hail, signalling that our honeymoon with the weather was coming to an end, but that was still as bad as it got.

After getting back down at a decent time, it was inevitable that we would move on to take in Gairich on the other side of the loch, which necessitated jumping the gate on the dam and nervously trotting across.  The initial going on Gairich is slow as it follows the loch and is soft and spongy.  This gives way to a loss in height, taking you back to your starting altitude.  Maintaining your general direction, avoid the track going perpendicular and gain height again until you still the good path starting off on the steady back of Gairich.

The going is good but Gairich keeps its sting in the tail, with almost half of the height gain in the final stretch.  Still, this makes for an impressive little hill and a rapid end as long as you keep pushing it.  The path stays good and the views in this neighbourhood are truly impressive; hill-spotters will have a field day.

Taking in both hills meant that we got to Invergarry later than planned (the twisty road to this loch not helping), but our reception at Glen Albyn lodge was superb; they worked out our evening schedule so we could fit in showers, dinner at the grand Invergarry Hotel, and the absolute highlight, a nighttime spell in the wonderful, luxurious hot tub, which was just what the tired muscles and the week long tally of minor niggles needed.  Add to that the comfy beds (especially after a week of hostels) and the strength of the coffee the next morning, and I would happily recommend a stay there to anyone!

Loch Quoich from the start of the route on Sgurr a' Mhaoraich:

Onto the ridge with the snowy summit in view:

Looking down over Allt Coire a' Chaorainn from the summit:

Starting on Gairich from the dam:

Looking west from the summit over to Knoydart:

And with Paul!

Loch Ericht to Loch Laggan: Ben Alder (25) and Beinn Bheoil (112)

Walk date: 03/05/12

My Munro #'s: 229 and 230

Pronunciations - translations - heights:

Byn awlder - hill of the rock - 1148m

Byn vyawl - hill of the mouth - 1019m


Statistics:

Duration (all) - 08:00 - 19:50

Duration (hike) - 09:45 - 18:30

Distance (all) - 57.1 km

Distance (hike) - 25.3 km

Total ascent (all) - 1650m

Total ascent (hike) - 1050m

Weather - nice all day long, warm and dry with a good wind on top

Team - with Paul P

Other hikers: only people on route in/out or staying at bothy, no one up at height

Day 5 - Thursday

Paul P and George 'Daddy Team' Hiking Trip 2012

And so at last we come to Ben Alder!! Long have I looked in books at these hills and wondered when the opportunity would come. The Ben Alder group of hills is massive, but it is their remoteness which really conjures up a special feeling and epitomises the difficulties of spending time amongst them. It takes 16km of thankfully good estate tracks before the hiking even starts. Although Culra bothy looked good, we hadn't managed the organisation required to stay there, and instead opted for cycling in from Dalwhinnie.

The going is good pretty much all the way in, although there is a significant incline after the Alder lodge and the high track is of not as high quality. Rounding Loch Pattock is also a little rough, but the views from being lochside together with the delights of negotiating the suspension bridge made it worthwhile!

Once beside Culra bothy, we ditched the bikes and hiked up Bealach Beithe on a great path. Our thoughts of tackling either of the northern buttresses soon receded as our going was more than sufficient, even around Loch a Bhealaich Bheithe when the path got a little soft.

Once up on the high Bealach Breabag, we had a good break and once again ditched the bags to enable a quick ascent.  Unfortunately the path we were following turned out to go down toward Loch Ericht again and so we had to make a quick turn and charge up the rough southern flank.

As we reached the crest we also reached the snow line and we soon found ourselves strolling on thick snow with tremendous views all around.  It was great to sit and admire the distance we'd come, as well as contemplate Bein Eibhinn, Aonach Beag, Geal charn and Carn Dearg, all waiting for another adventure.

Our return to the bealach was fairly quick, although we still failed to find an actual path, and found a way through the rough eastern flank instead!

After that, Beinn Bheoil and it's straightforward path came easy, although it was further than it looked with an unexpected height gain on the second part, but we knew everything was in hand, and the views along Loch Ericht made it worthwhile.

The return leg on the bikes was smooth and a fair bit quicker, enjoying as we did the incline we had previously slogged up.  We arrived back at Dalwhinnie just shy of 12 hours.  A superb day out, and a set of hills that I personally can't wait to get back to.

The Alder Lodge:

The suspension bridge at Loch Pattock:

First sighting of Culra Lodge:

The bealach from Loch a Bhealaich Bheithe:

Clambouring up the south side of Ben Alder:

Loch a Bhealaich Bheithe from Alder:

Overhangs on Alder:

The final climb on Beinn Bheoil:

Loch Lochy, Loch Arkaig and Loch Eil: Sron a' Choire Ghairbh (239) and Meall na Teanga (275)

Walk date: 02/05/12

My Munro #'s: 227 and 228

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Sron a Choire Ghairbh - srawn a corrie ghirav - 937m
Myowl na tyenga - hill of the tongue - 918m

Statistics:
Duration - 12:20 - 19:00

Distance - 21.2 km (inc 6 km by bike)

Total ascent - 1300m

Weather - Beautiful.  Hot with a nice breeze at height.
Team - with Paul P

Other hikers: a few

Paul P and George 'Daddy Team' Hiking Trip 2012

Day 4 - Wednesday

After some big days, we decided to switch the plan around a bit and do a lighter day today; instead of our plan of two consecutive Alder group days, we reduced our Alder aims to just one day, and put in this pleasant little hike instead.  The only problem was that just getting to this hike proved to be an epic; after a lie-in and a relaxed drive down the A86, we found the road blocked almost at its end.  As a result, we had to drive all the way back to our new base at Newtonmore, and then drive to Loch Lochy via Inverness!  We don't normally start hikes after noon!

Anyway, this hike saw our first use of the bikes, and made the first (and last) 3km fly by.  After that, the path didn't hang about and pretty much made a constant sharp incline up to the bealach between these two beauties.  In the mid-afternoon heat, we made the wise decision to keep the bags between the hills and pace up each one in T-shirts.  We felt like kings strolling about on the tops with the light breeze cooling us down as we gazed over to the Nevis range and beyond still crusted in snow.

This is a highly recommended shorter hike.  It's by no means effort-free, but the rewards are great for what you have to put in!  It unfortunately still turned out to be a big day for us, as even on the way back, another accident meant that we had to repeat the whole trip via Inverness route.  Boo hiss, but a fantastic meal in The Glen Hotel, 'Newtonmore made up for it!


Meall na Teanga

Great views!

Glen Affric and Strathfarrar: Mam Sodhail (Mam Soul) (14), Carn Eige (Eighe) (12) and Beinn Fhionnlaidh (128)

Walk date: 01/05/12

My Munro #'s: 224, 225 and 226

Pronunciations - translations - heights:
Mam sool - hill of the barns - 1181m
Kaarn aya - file hill - 1183m
Beinn yoony - Finlay's hill - 1005m

Statistics:
Duration - 08:00 - 19:15

Distance - 27.8 km
Total ascent - 2000m
Weather - A misty morning gave way to glorious sunshine for most of the day.
Team - with Paul P
Other hikers: 3

Paul P and George 'Daddy Team' Hiking Trip 2012

Day 3 - Tuesday

After a rest day, today saw Paul return to the fray, although the rest had not exactly cured him, and for myself, the extra hiking day had only pushed my ankle worse.  And so it was in a sorry state that we started what we knew would be a very big day, and a linear one at that, meaning that if we turned back we would have to repeat every step at some point in the future.  

The opening kilometres of this hike were along estate tracks, and the hard ground was unforgiving; Paul and I had to keep to our own sides as we required opposite cambers to help ease our ailments!  Once we were onto the path proper things improved, as did the weather, as a mist-filled glen gave way to strong sunshine, bizarrely coinciding (after a sharp turn off the lochside path) with our hitting the snow line!

Thankfully, the route along the loch and then up into Coire Leachavie was fantastic, and we soon forgot our potential alternative descent route down Gleann nam Fiedh.  The route only really gave out when we hit the snow, which was a little worrying as the walls ahead seemed impregnable.  Fortunately for us, a super keen lone hiker overtook us at this point, and provided a welcomed lead on the way ahead. 

Once on the ridge, the snow was deep and soft and going was slow, and for a while the cloud came in and made us worry that this was going to become an epic, but after a short while the sun became the victor and we strode to a magnificent first hill at 1181m, Scotland's 14th highest...

A long downward push and climb through the same soft snow found us gaining another 2 metres overall as we came to stand on Carn Eige, the 12th highest...

After being on two amazingly high hills, the third hill of Beinn Fhionnlaidh was a surreal sight, standing so low below Carn Eige, but Beinn Fhionnlaidh demands respect as it is one of Scotland's most remote Munros, and, after descending through much loose snow, it was a privilege to stand upon it, especially with the wonderful views over the ridiculously long Loch Mullardoch, which had given us all the problems on the first day.

You always take a deep breath leaving such a remote point as you know all the work that remains.  We had hoped for a quicker return as a path bypasses the height of Carn Eige, but ironically in all the snow this less frequented route seemed much more work than the climb back onto it would have been.

Once past Carn Eige and back over Mam Sodhail the going was much quicker and our spirits were raised as despite less than 100% fitness we had managed a classic Munro day, and we had done it in spectacular conditions.  Truly one of the best hikes experienced!

Glen Affric starts to fend off the morning mist:

Coire Leachavie, gateway to a snowy world!

Burning off that mist!

Paul gets serious with the sticks!

On the ridge!

Nice hat, onto Mam Sodhail:

And Carn Eige:

Beinn Fhionnlaidh below:

Looking back:

The git that is Loch Mullardoch: