Day 1 - Thursday 28th December
After nine months of going out with their daughter, it was deemed a safe enough time this Christmas period for George to meet the parents of the Sonia. And so it was that on the December 28th I dutifully packed my bags and made my way from Yorkshire to Liverpool airport ready for the flight to Porto, Portugal's second city. Armed with my Portuguese dictionary, I was ready for some serious study before and during the flight, but maybe after a paper and a coffee to get psyched-up. However, in the check-in queue, I met a young chap when he asked me where to go for Departures. I detected an accent, and so I began, 'Oh, are you Portuguese?' to which he replied, 'Oh no, I am Polish, from Krakow'. 'Oh, I've been to Krakow' I then said, to which he then talked at me for the next five hours. Now, don't get me wrong, this 'Mitchem' was a nice guy, but some people just don't know when to stop talking! He even gave me his Guardian, but then I couldn't actually read it because of all his attention! Arhk!
Anyways, the flight was soon on the ground, and I was promptly hugging my Iberian once more. Parents were not in-tow (pre-arranged as an 'acclimatising' move) and we made our way into Porto by the scenic route, going down to the harbour and through some old central streets. However, my nerves were getting to me by this point, and so I didn't take in as much as I otherwise would have. Before I knew it, we were opening the front door and footsteps could be heard approaching!
I needn't have worried however as both Ma and Pa Sonia (New Persons 1 and 2) were absolutely lovely. With almost her Dad's first words being, 'My home is your home', it had already beaten chez Hellery!
Before long we were sat down to roast pork, roast potatoes and chestnuts and some fine wine. Even my total lack of Portuguese did not seem to be too much of a barrier (Ma and Pa Sonia both take English lessons). Retiring from the meal, our gifts were soon exchanged and well received. Sonia's Dad then opened, in my honour (having heard of my liking for all things malty) a bottle of whisky he had saved since his military service in the 60's. Bonus! OK, it was a blend, but I was hardly going to get snobby at a time like that!!
Day 2 - Friday 29th December
The next day was set for a tour of Porto itself, but not before a visit to Grandma Sonia and Uncle Sonia (New Persons 3 and 4) who were both very pleasant (although Grandma Sonia apparently said I looked 18!!). Anyway, we were soon on a jetty on Gaia awaiting a small ferry to Porto ('Porto' as we know it is actually made up of two cities, Vila Nova de Gaia on the south bank of the river and Porto on the north). The little ferry ride was quite an experience, even on a calm day, but a well worth experience for the bargain of one Euro!
This is not a period piece! "Ferry, cross the Douro..."
What a dashing chap, and George:
Once safely in Porto, we made our way along the river bank by tram towards Ribeira, like The Shambles in York, but so much more so and in a colourful flamboyant stlyee. Ribeira is the historical centre of Porto and was declared an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.
This art-school marks the beginning of Ribeira's winding streets:
There's sky up there somewhere!
How could they think elegant metal beats concrete??
Warning, colour can be a shock to an Aberdeen lad!
That fancy metal bridge up close:
After Ribeira, we took the short Funicular dos Guindais railway up the bank beside the pretty metal bridge and visited Capela de Sta church (stunning ornate gold-painted carving throughout the interior) and then the prominently placed cathedral, where on the terrace, I once again ran into Mr Talk himself, Mitchem!! C'mon man, this is a big city!! So obviously, he got to meet Sonia, he got to catch up on how the parental meet had gone, and he tried his damnedest to get invited to Sonia's planned slideshow that evening with her close friends!! Thankfully, he failed, and after only 30 minutes we managed to get away, which was a good job, because it was lunchtime!
We lunched in Sonia's old student haunt, the wonderful Café Progresso (established only in 1899), where I met Maya and Anna, or rather New Persons 5 and 6. From there we visited the old market, Mercado do Bolhao, which had survived a proposed mall-style update due to people power, before hitting another wonderful cafe, Café Majestic (art deco and relatively new at 1921).
I liked the room on the top of this:
It's all Port!
Porto has lots of great old tile-work, such as this:
As the day was nearing a close, and so were opening times, we had to be quick about it and jaunt back over to Gaia, where ironically all of the Port is stored! The cellars by the river have all recently started charging entry fees, so we explored the back-streets and after a bit of climbing emerged thirsty at Taylor's. Once booked-in and sat down, along came from dry port and then the tour began. We learned that Taylor's is one of the oldest Port businesses (1692) and the only one still family owned. Also, that it is of course a British invention, starting during the Napoleonic Wars as when Britain's Bordeaux supply was cut off, we plucky Brits looked elsewhere, and liked the Portuguese stuff. However, it didn't last the journey back home well so some bright spark put brandy in it to make it more hardy and plunk, you had port. Now of course, it's specially distilled grape spirit that's added and there's a whole world within port to get a hold off. Firstly, there are apertifs and digestifs, the former being dry and from white grapes, the latter being sweeter and, you've guessed it, from red grapes, but there's more to it than that! Put simply, Ruby is port that has undergone less oxidation because it lies in bigger barrels with a low surface-area to volume ratio. Tawny is the opposite, but then you have Vintage (2-3 years in barrel and intended to age in the bottle 10-50 years once you've bought it), Late Bottle Vintage (LBV, 4-6 years in barrel, ready to drink when bottle) and Aged Tawny (10-50 years in the barrel, bottled ready to drink). Follow? Easy really.
Bright lights, big city:
Just have them lock the door, I'll be fine:
Porto by night will just about do:
After the Port tour, we were soon picked up by Sonia's Dad and sat eating again back home before rushing to the station to meet Sonia's Lisbon friend Paula (whom I'd already met in the Deen) and her boyfriend Juao (so just New Person 7). Then we were off to Fatima and Ricardo's house (New Persons 8 and 9) in order to see some old slides of Sonia and her friends, and we were joined there by Maya from earlier and another Juao (for simplicity, Juao 2, aka New Person 10). We stayed here having some more dessert, watching the slides and chatting until midnightish, and then all returned home, ready for our trip to the Douro wine region the next day. Phew!
Day 3 - Saturday 30th December
Day 3 saw us leaving Porto itself and heading east up the Douro into the wine region itself, all the way to Pinhao, a trip of some three hours which necessitated getting out of bed in the single figure hours, the pain, the pain! Still, it was worth it. The day was quite grey, but it kept dry and was pleasant enough. In the hot summer this area must be unbelievable.
Fog on the Douro is all mine all mine...
A nice way to gently wake-up looking at this:
The village of Pinhao with terraced hills all around:
It's all looking a bit European:
The 'churning-room' at Calem. Socks off everyone:
After the farm tour, we walk back into the village. Paula and Juan head off to shop/visit a cafe whilst Sonia and I direct her parents up one of the attractive terraced hills, achieving some impressive height before we head back.
Young vines on Douro hills:
Day 4 - Sunday 31st December
Pretty in pink:
The museum itself:
After the museum, it was time to return home for a hearty meal of Octopus! Fortunately, I am the adventurous type when it comes to food, and fortunately it was cooked to the usual high standard I had already come to expect from chez Mendes.
Down the beach at Foz:
Will the torment never end with these views?
This was just in front of the café:
As the sun was setting on 2006, we made our way to the lighthouse, completely serenditiously, for a beautiful end of year with an intense sky and a vibrant Atlantic crashing around. Fantastic!
As night came in it was time to hit the town. Parking up, we made our way toward Gaia, where we had planned to eat, although not before checking out the photographic museum, which had previously been a prison. It was strange walking around this beautiful yet imposing building knowing the torment that must have occurred within its wall during its former function.
Once the excitement had calmed down, as it had been some time since I had met anyone new, we made our way through the crowd to chat to Sonia's old neighbour, her husband and child (New Persons 14, 15 and 16), before heading back to the car and waiting patiently in the traffic to leave town (unlike some native drivers!). Back at home on the other side of 2am, we were surprised to find Sonia's parents still awake, and so with a little bit more chat and foot, 2007 was officially under-way.
Life's a beach, down in Gaia:
Day 6 - Tuesday 2nd January
A rare sighting of the native Soniator photographica:
It's like, in the country:
Steep valley sides and a tree that's seen better days:
Why are we walking on the side with no sun??
With time running out, today's first task was to go and check out the 'Peter Golf' in Foz that had been denied to us on New Year's Eve. Peter Golf looks like crazy golf, but it is much, much harder! In the first picture, you have to strike your ball into the cage in the distance, which will put your ball on 'the green'. Anything else and you have to start again. I actually managed this in two, but the ramp in the second picture took me fourteen attempts!!
Remember when you just had windmills?
Steady as she goes:
After golf, we lunched again at Café Progresso, checked out the 100-year-old Lello bookshop with its superbly ornate staircase and then made it over to the grounds of Palacio de Cristal and Solar do Vinho do Porto, or the House of Port, where we met Sonia friend Joana 1 and her son Guilherme (New Persons 22 and 23). Here we ordered decent drinks from the port menu and sat drinking them as the sun came down over the Douro. Awful really.
Some more colour of Porto:
The beautiful Lello bookstore:
That staircase 1:
That staircase 2:
That staircase 3:
View from Palacio do Cristal:
Solar do Vinho do Porto:
Arty port shot 1:
Arty port shot 2:
Day 8 - Thursday 4th January
Finally, before returning to the Deen, we had a nice day out in Nottingham including a fantastic lunch and evening with the Lisa & Neil, but before that we had a whistle-stop tour of Nottingham, calling at The Rescue Rooms (pictured), Selectadisc, The Alley Cafe, The Small Screen, The Broadway and Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, all in 90 minutes!!